Research Topics for Herbal formulations of Skin are discussed

1. “Leveraging Innovation in Herbal
formulations and Cosmetics”
Mohammad Yaseen
Khan M.Pharm
Director: Whitestone Healthcare Pvt.
Ltd. Mumbai
Assistant Professor
R.K.D.F College of Pharmacy
Bhopal (M.P.)
Email:nirmatech@gmail.com
SDP, May 22, 2012
Akkalkua, Maharashtra

2. The ancient cosmetics in the
countries like Egypt, Italy, India
were primarily extracts from the
plant sources like
 Turmeric
 Sandalwood
 Nuts
 Yellow and red clay
 Ashes of minerals and herbs.
Cosmetic products were used
for curative as well as for beauty.

3.  Paste containing mixture of
Turmeric
 Sandalwood
 Bengal-gram
 Saffron
 Used to stimulate the
underlying tissues of the
n Ubta
Ubta skin
n
http://ezinearticles.com

4. Ubtan: Role of phyto-ingredients
Turmeric
Prevents and cures pigmentation
Maintains the pH balance & Makes the skin glow
Sandal wood
Inhibiting the growth of microorganisms
Preventing skin infections & tighten the pores
Bengal gram (Woody fiber & Vitamin C)
Healing of the cracked & inflamed skin.
Open the blocked pores.
Saffron
Add to the lustre of the skin
 Make the skin glow.

5. Utilization
of herbs
Vedic era
Herbs used for
protection of skin
Knowledge Transfer
Traditional healers
Modern medicine
& it’s hazards
Formulations

6. Approaches for development of
cosmetics from Ayurveda
PPlalanntsts u usseedd i nin A Ayyuurvrveeddaa
Primary screening to support the
Primary screening to support the
Ayurvedic claims
Ayurvedic claims
Phytochemical profiling SSccrereeenniningg f ofor rt htheerarappeeuutitcic p pootetenntitaial l
Formulation of Natural
Health Products
MMaarkrkeer ra annaalylyssisis Formulation of Natural
Health Products
QQuuaaliltiyty C Coonntrtorol l CCoossmmeetitcic a apppplilcicaatitoionn TTooxxicicitiyty / /s saafefetyty e evvaaluluaatitoionn
J. Ethnopharmacology 103 (2006) 25–35

8.  Natural cosmetics would
cause fewer side effects
than chemical-based
cosmetics.
 A simple survey about
the frequency of use of
cosmetics
 Herbal cosmetics are
much more cheaper than
the synthetic cosmetics
 94% of users believe that
the chemical based
cosmetic would cause
side effects.
Chen. Q., 2009. International Journal of Chemistry 1(2): 57-59

9. Name of the plant Common name Dosage form Cosmetic use
Acacia concinnia pods Shikakai Powder Shampoo's, Soaps
Aloe Vera Leaf Aloe Powder / Paste
Radio-protective
Moisturizer, Sun screen
Allium Sativum bulbs Garlic Powder/ Paste Promotes Skin healing
Acorus calamus rhizome Sweet Flag Powder/Paste
Aromatic, Dusting
Powders, Skin Lotions
Avena sativa fruit Oat Powder / Paste Skin tonic / Moisturizer
Azadirachta indica leaves Neem Powder / Paste
Tooth Pastes, Soaps,
Shampoo's
Calendula officinalis
flowers
Marigold Paste Promotes skin care
Cedrus deodara wood Deodar Powder/Paste Shampoo's/Soaps
Cichorium intybus seed Chicory Powder/Paste
Relieves sore
eyes/Clears Skin of
blemishes

10. Plants having functional cosmetic properties
Contd….
Name of the plant Common name Dosage form Cosmetic use
Curcuma longa rhizome Turmeric Powder/Paste Skin creams & lotions
Antibacterial
Crocus sativus stigma Saffron Liquid Post bath massage
Coriandrum sativum seed Coriander Powder Anti-inflammatory
Citrus lemon peel Lemon Powder Heals skin, Prevents Hair Loss
Citrus aurantium peel Orange Paste Skin creams, Soaps, Shampoos
Eclipta alba plant Bhringraj Powder/Paste Shampoo's
Glycyrrhiza glabra root Liquorice Powder/Paste Anti-inflammatory
Lawsonia alba leaves Heena Powder/Paste Shampoo's
Pterocarpus santalinus bark Red sandal wood Powder/Paste Skin creams
Rubia cordifolia root Manjistha Powder/Paste Wound Healing

11. No body deserves
a remedy,
which is worse
than his
diseases !!!
“Have you been using
herbal cosmetics again?

12. Placeholder text
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SCENE 7
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13. Ginkgo biloba HPLC
chromatogram

14.  Unknown active compound
 Contamination with pesticides
 Contamination with
mycotoxins
 Adulterations with similar
plants
 Large variation in level active
compounds
 Toxic compounds

15.  Analysis focused on
active compounds
 Analysis focused on
marker compounds
 Analysis focused on
contaminations
 Fingerprinting

16. Marker analysis – Its importance in cosmetics

17. Curcuma longa
Used for anti-aging, Anti acne, prevention
of hair loss & pigmentation
O O
O CH3
OH
H3C O
HO
C21H20O6 Mol. Wt. 368.39
Marker - Curcumin (diferuloyl methane)

18. HPTLC Chromatogram of Curcuma longa
extract with standard Curcumin
S T1
T2
S – Curcumin (Standard)
Rf @ 0.5
T1, T2 – Test Samples

19. Skin Nails
Hair Teeth

20. Skin care cosmetics

21.  Skin hyper-pigmentation causes psycho-social distress
 Commonly used natural whitening agents include kojic acid and
herbal extracts like Morus alba & Artocarpus lakoocha
Kojic acid, a fungal metabolic
product suppresses free
tyrosinase used in the therapy
and prevention of pigmentation,
both in vitro and in vivo
Cabanes et al., J Pharm Pharmacol
1994; 46(12):982–985
Common Mulberry
Monkey jack
Tengamnuay et al. Int J Cosmet Sci 2006; 28(4):269-276.

22.  Wrinkles are thin, creased & sagging grooves on the
surface of the skin or can be quite deep.
 Skin wrinkles typically appear as a result of aging.
 Natural anti-wrinkles agents
which protect against
premature aging:
 plants extracts
 pure phytomolecules
 vitamins

23.  Sunlight produces Ultraviolet (UV)
radiation
 UV-A/B rays entering the atmosphere
Both are responsible for photo-aging
 UV-B in upper skin layer
Damage cell membranes
Causes for sunburns
 UV-A in deeper skin layers
Damage collagen (structural protein)
Elastin (Increase stretch property)
& DNA
Causes for wrinkles
 UV damage to DNA & genetic material
Causes for skin cancer
Sunlight
Ozone Layer

24. Herbal cosmetic for skin aging is a New province
 Promotion of collagen, elastin synthesis
 Matrix metalloproteinase inhibition
 Inhibition of reactive oxygen species
 Inhibition of pro-inflammatory cytokines
 Promotion of naturally occurring antioxidants
(vitamins A, C & E, Squalene & coenzyme Q-10)

25. Argireline

26. Strategy for the development of
Antiwrinkle formulation
Proper
channel
Plant selection
Phytochemical
and HPTLC
profiling
In vitro -
assays
In vivo
Pharmacological
Screening
Formulation

27.  Cellulite is a localized condition of subcutaneous fat and
connective tissues with the typical visual appearance of
the orange peel look of the skin.
 Cellulite appears generally after puberty and worsens with
age.
 The most used pharmacological topical agents are
 Xanthines like caffeine, plant extracts, and algae.
 The use of plant extracts such as Centella asiatica ,
Ginkgo biloba , Aloe vera etc.
Loggia et al., Fitoterapia 1996; 3: 257–73.

28.  They are incorporated in
anticellulite cosmetic
preparations for their beneficial
effect on the skin surface.
 Fucus vesiculosus (Fucaceae)
 Laminaria flexicaulis
(Laminariaceae)
 Ascophyllum nodosum (Fucaceae)
Fucus vesiculosus
Ascophyllum nodosum

29.  Antiperspirants are topically applied products designed to
reduce underarm wetness by limiting exocrine sweat
production.
 Deodorants are topically applied products designed to
reduce underarm odor.
Salvia officinalis L. & Medicago
sativa reduced flushes &
nocturnal sweat
Salvia officinalis L. & Medicago
sativa reduced flushes &
nocturnal sweat
SSaalvlviaia oofffficicininaalilsis
Medicago
sativa
Medicago
sativa
Alonso, J. Tratado de
Fitofármacosy Nutracéuticos.2004, 954-959
Thymus vulgaris L.
exhibited a deodorant
activity
Thymus vulgaris L.
exhibited a deodorant
activity
Thymus vulgaris
L
Thymus vulgaris
L
Hiroyukia et al., Koryo (2001) 45: 9-2

30. HHaaiirr ggrroowwtthh pprroommootteerrss
Vasodilators :
Blood flow stimulants
Hair follicle stimulants

31. Swertia japonica
Bitter glycosides of Swertia japonica
(Gentianaceae), swertinogen
&
Cepharanthine, an alkaloid extracted
from the root of Stephania
cepharanthia (Menispermaceae)
Act as blood flow stimulant
European Patent Application: EP0674897
Stephania
cepharanthia
Zingiber
officinale
Capsicum
annum
Capsaicin from Capsicum annum
(Solanaceae)
&
Zingerone and shogaol from the root
of Zingiber officinale
(Zingiberaceae),
Act as the hair follicle stimulants

32.  Hair conditioner reduce the
magnitude of the forces
associated with combing
Examples of some herbal hair
SEM of hair without conditioners
cleaning shampoo
SEM of hair with
Conditioning shampoo
Hibiscus rosasinensis
(Malvaceae)
Nymphaea stellata
(Nymphaeaceae)

33. Plant-based hair colors are:
 Lawsone is colouring phyto
molecule in Lawsonia inermis
(Lythraceae).
 Flores anthemidis (Asteraceae)
having 4',5,7-trihydroxyflavone
as coloring agent.
Lawsonia inermis
Flores anthemidis

34. Baby care products Cosmetics for the elderly

35.  The skin of the newborn is an
“unripe” skin, it is delicate and
requires special care.
 Toxic and synthetic chemicals
can cause skin irritation.
 Natural herbal products play
key role in baby cosmetics.
Marigold Herbal Soap

36.  Elderly skin is different from skin of
healthy person e.g.
more wrinkle formation
 loss of elasticity
 uneven pigmentation
 loss of moisture
 Increased roughening
 cutaneous itching
 Flavonoid α-glycosyl rutin show a
protection against premature UV light–
induced skin aging.
 Phytomolecules (e.g., licochalcone A) is
effective against mechanical stress such
as razor burn.
Stab F. SO¨ FW-Journal, 2000; 127:2–8
licochalcone A

37.  Poor scientific justifications are available
for phytoconstituents.
More susceptible to microbial and
inorganic contamination.
Multi phytoconstituent evaluation is hard-hitting.
 Poor organoleptic properties.
 Immiscibility of extract with other
ingredients.

38. Value addition for herbal drugs
What for?
 Improve solubility of poorly soluble molecules
 Effective delivery of drugs
 Prolonged action of phyto-molecules
 Maintain integrity of unstable compounds
 Provide all the benefits of bioactive molecule at
reduced dose level
 Reduce side effects of active ingredients
 Targeted drug delivery

39.  Microemulsions
 Liposomes
 Phytosomes
 Nano drug delivery
system

40. Microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersion
of two immiscible liquids, stabilized by surfactants.
 They are clear liquids because
the dispersed droplets are less
than 100 nanometers in
diameter.
 Microemulsions have the
ability to encapsulate non
polar phyto molecules.
Ex: Oil-in-water microemulsion of
lecithin and an alkyl glucoside as
surfactants is proposed as a
cosmetic vehicle for Arbutin and
kojic acid.
Oil-in-water
microemulsion

41. Liposomes are artificial microscopic vesicle consisting of
an aqueous core enclosed in one or more phospholipid
layers
 Liposomes encapsulate water and
lipid soluble pharmacologically and
cosmetically active components.
 Drugs particles is surrounded by
phospholipids.
 Empty liposomes are also used in the
cosmetics as they increase the skin
humidity.
 Amphiphilic and lipophilic substances
can be incorporated into the lipid
bilayer. (e.g., oil-soluble UV filters)

42. Phytosomes – value added herbal
formulations
What is Phytosomes ?
Phytosomes are advanced forms
of herbal products with better
absorption & utilization producing
better effects than conventional
extracts.
Phytosomes are produced via a
process, where Individual
components are chemically bind
with phospholipids to form a
Drug molecule bind complex.
to phospholipids

43. By combining the emulsifying action of
the phospholipid, with the standardized
botanical extracts, the phytosome form
provides dramatically enhanced
bioavailability and delivers faster and
improved absorption through the skin.
Ginkgo biloba
Ginkgo biloba
(Ginkgoaceae) terpenes
phytosome was shown to be
effective in soothing
individual contact reactions
to other substances
contained in topical
formulations.
Loggia et al., Fitoterapia 1996; 3: 257–73.

44. Curcumin phytosomes
OH
Necessitates the need for a novel compound
to enhances the utilization of the key
CH3
components of the plant extract
O
CH2 O C
HC
promising biological effects but
poorly absorbed
Hydrogenated soya phosphatidyl Curcumin choline (HSPC)
HO
H3CO OCH3
OH O
CH3 N
CH3
CH2 CH2 O P
O
O
CH2
O
(CH2)16 CH3
O C
O
(CH2)16 CH3
Microscopic view of curcumin phytosomes
Maiti & Mukherjee, 2007. International J. Pharmaceutics, 330 (1-2), 155– 63 .

45.  Nanoparticles have a high
affinity to the stratum corneum,
hence producing high
bioavailability of the
encapsulated material to the
skin.
 Alpha lipoic acid, a novel
antiaging substance, is
chemically labile and produces
unpleasant odor.
 The encapsulation of active
moiety in solid lipid
nanoparticle can overcome this
Alpha lipoic acid problem
Sout et al., J Microencapsul 2005; 6: 581–92.

46. Nanoemulsions & Nanocrystals
Nanocrystals
Nanoemulsions are
emulsions having small
droplet size (20–300 nm).
They could be used for
lipophilic as well as
hydrophilic substances
with enhanced
Bioavailability.
Nanocrystal technology is an
attrition process wherein large
micron size crystals are media
milled in a water-based stabilizer
solution.
The process generates physically
stable dispersions consisting of
nanometer-sized drug crystals &
can be utilized for flavonoids,
nutrient materials etc.

47. S.no Formulation
Type
Effect Active Ingredient
1 Liposomes Whitening Citrus extract
2 Phytosome Antioxidant Silybin extract
3 Liposhere Antioxidant Sunflower
extract
4 Nanoparticle Anti-acne Vitamin E
5 Nanocapsules Sunscreen Vitamins
6 Nanosomes Antiaging Ginseng
Chanchal et al., 2008 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 7 , 89–95

48. Additive, agonistic
pharmacological effects
MMuullttiippllee ttaarrggeettss
Herbal extract
SSiinnggllee ttaarrggeettss
Wagner H., et al 2009.Phytomedicine. 6:97-110

49. Silver bullet verses Herbal shotgun
The herbal "shotgun" may be more effective than
the “magic bullet”.
G. Ulrich-Merzenich et al. 2007 Phytomedicine 14:70–82

51. 51
Herbal medicines: yet to be explored !
If we want to make the claims…
Then we have to do science….
….with our product!
Develop New strategies
&
Work together with International coordination!!

52. 52
THANK YOU