cosmetic formulation

1. COSMETIC FORMULATION
Farzin Firozian PharmD/PhD

2. HANDS
• The stratum corneum of the palm is uniquely designed to withstand physical trauma
• Water destroys the resistive physical strength of the palmar skin
• Hand blisters are more common when the hand is perspiring heavily
• The palmar surface of the hand has numerous sweat glands, known as eccrine glands
• Palm sweating may occur in warm weather, but may also occur under stressful
conditions.

3. TRAUMA
• Callus(retained layers of keratin that form a dead skin)
• Hammer
• Pencil
• It is dehydrated and inflexible and will fissure readily with trauma.
• It cannot be repaired
• since the callus is nonliving

4. THE DORSUM OF THE HAND
• The dorsum of the hand is thinner skin that becomes
increasingly thinner with age.
• Elasticity
• photoaged s
• Irregularly pigmented leading to dark areas known as
lentigenes
• This irregular pigmentation is also accompanied by
skin that is easily injured.
• Senile purpura

5. FEET
• Feet constantly bear the weight of the body
• They are forced into shoes
• Spiked heel
• The warm, moist, dark environment of the foot in the shoe is perfect for infection of all
types.
• Especially between the toes.
• The most common infection of the feet is fungal

6. TINEA PEDIS
• Between the fourth and fifth toes
• Athletic individuals
• Incidence of fungal infection increases with advancing age due to deterioration of the
body’s immune system.
• Topical antifungal
• Fungal infections of the nail require oral medication, usually for three months.

7. PLANTAR WARTS
• Papilloma virus
• Public pools, exercise facilities, dance studios, public showers, etc.
• Basically any place where there is moisture and lots of bare feet.

8. HYGIENE NEEDS
• The feet need aggressive hygiene, not only to prevent infection, but also to control odor.
• Bacteria digest the sweat to obtain nutrition and reproduce.
• Foot malodor is a much greater problem in persons with hyperhidrosis
• warm socks and shoes
• Good cleansing of the feet is a prerequisite to skin health
• Eczema

9. NAILS AND CUTICLES
• Nails are made of nonliving keratin
• Manicures, pedicures, artificial nails, nail polish application, etc.
• The nail is a thin plate of nonliving keratin designed to protect the tip of the finger and
toes.
• The nail is produced by a group of cells designated as the nail matrix that lies
approximately one-quarter inch below the visible nail.
• The nail matrix cells are formed at birth and cannot regenerate following injury.
• A permanently deformed nail

10. THE CUTICLE
• The cuticle is a like a rubber gasket forming a watertight seal between the nonliving nail
and the skin of the fingertip.
• Damage to the cuticle results in water, chemicals, or anything the hand touches
reaching the nail matrix cells.

11. COMMON DERMATOLOGIC DISEASE
CONSIDERATIONS
• The visible nail cannot be repaired.
• only the growth of new nail can be influenced.
• In most individuals, it takes six months to grow a new fingernail
• One year to grow a new toenail.
• Onycholysis
• Onycholysis is usually traumatic in nature and is more common in individuals who wear
artificial nails.
• Fungal infection

12. PEELING AND CRACKING
• Advancing age
• This may be due to decreased blood flow to the cells of the nailmatrix
• Nutritional
• Biotin is necessary for hard nails and may not be properly absorbed
• Oral biotin supplement

13. SCALP
• The nonliving hair abuts the living scalp
• Sweat, sebum, nerves and hair follicles
• It is important to recognize that healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp
• The scalp has an abundant blood supply to provide the necessary nutrients for hair
growth.
• The scalp also has numerous eccrine sweat glands and sebaceous glands.
• These secretions provide nutrients for bacteria and fungus that can infect the skin of the
scalp.

14. CARE FOR DRY SKIN

15. MOISTURIZATION
• This is the ability of a preparation to increase the water content of the non-viable
epidermis, that is the stratum corneum.
• Creams, gels and lotions
• The skin scales become more pliable and transparent and therefore less visible.
A. Emollients: Application of a thin film of occlusive materials such as an oil or waxes
makes the skin feel soft and smooth.
• Hydrocarbons, lanolin alcohols

16. B. HUMECTANTS
• Hygroscopic materials known as humectants
• Can draw water to the horny layer and hold it in the intercellular lipid matrix.
• This water would come from the water in the finished formulation
• Controversy
• Solution of glycerol
• 10% increases TEWL
• 15% decreased TEWL for up to 4 hours and reduced skin roughness
• 98% will absorb water from the skin until it reaches a 30% active equilibrium mixture when it
exhibits its humectant properties

17. C: HYDROPHILIC MATRICES
• Hyaluronic acid
• Colloidal oatmeal
• A type of blanket which provides protection as well as moisture to the skin.

18. MOISTURIZER

19. BASIC COMPONENTS OF MOISTURIZING
• Moisturizing actives cannot be applied without some modification
• Skin feeling tacky
• They are formulated into cosmetic emulsions and microemulsions
• Emulsifier
• Milks, lotions, creams , clear gels and aerosol mousses

20. A GOOD MOISTURIZING FORMULATION
1. Non-irritant
2. Easy to spread over the skin
3. Easy to rub in without 'soaping up‘
4. Able to leave the skin feeling soft rather than sticky
5. Pleasantly perfumed

21. BASIC COMPONENTS
• Moisturizer(s)
• Emulsifier system
• Water
• Preservative
• Antioxidants if necessary

22. MOISTURIZING PREPARATIONS CAN BE
CLASSIFIED INTO FIVE GROUPS
1. Day preparations.
2. Night preparations.
3. Hand and body lotions.
4. All-purpose products.
5. Barrier creams.

23. DAY PREPARATIONS
• Day moisturizing products tend to be light, oil-in-water emulsions
• Designed to spread easily and rub into the skin quickly
• Like liquid foundation creams
• Vanishing cream system
• High-quality stearic acid
• Commercial triple-pressed stearic acid consists of a mixture of stearic and palmitic acid
with a tiny amount of oleic acid.

24. SOAP
• Partial neutralization of the fatty acid (16-20%)
• Triethanolamine or potassium hydroxide
• The emulsifier system
• The nature of the neutralizing base the degree of saponification will determine the
consistency and texture of the cream
• Potassium hydroxide will produce harder soap than triethanolamine
• Excess stearic acid was used
• Thixotropic
• Dimethicone

25. SECONDARY EMULSIFIERS
• Self-emulsifying glyceryl monostearate
• Other nonionic surfactants such as polyethylene glycol esters
• Fatty alcohol
• Prevent any skin dryness which may result from use of the alkali-stearate soaps

26. EMULSION STABILIZERS
• Carbomers
• Fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol
• Cationic surfactants such as stearalkonium chloride
• Used to a lesser extent as emulsifiers
• Smooth skin feel after application

27. DAY CREAMS
1. Heat A and B
independently to 75°C.
2. Add A to B slowly with
continuous stirring.
3. Cool to 35 0C and add
perfume.

28. MOISTURIZING MILK
1. Heat (A), (B), (C) and (D) to 700C
independently.
2. Add (B) slowly to (A) whilst stirring
thoroughly.
3. Add (C) followed by (D) whilst
stirring.
4. Homogenize the mixture.
5. Cool to 35°C add (E).
6. Cool to 300C.

29. NATURAL ADDITIVES
• In the past decade the demand by the consumer for 'natural products' has increased.
• It is very difficult to develop a completely natural product.
• Add small amounts of oils or hydroalcoholic extracts from plants and, less often, animal
extracts.

30. SPECIAL ADDITIVES/NUTRIENTS(VITAMINS)
• The dietary importance of vitamins is well established.
• The most commonly used vitamins include E, A, C and panthenol.
• Vitamin E (J/-alpha-tocopherol) is employed as an antioxidant/free radical scavenger.
• Reduce membrane phospholipid peroxidation
• Peroxides are involved in the cellular damage caused during photo-ageing.
• Vitamin E acetate, a more stable form

31. RETINOIDS
• All-trans retinoic acid or tretinoin
• treatment of photodamaged skin
• Renova, an emollient-based form of tretinoin, has received FDA approval for the
cosmetic treatment of ageing skin.
• normalization of epidermal activity.
• Formation of new collagen
• Blood vessels
• Reduction in pigmentary changes

32. VITAMIN A PALMITATE
• Help maintain the skin's barrier properties
• Stimulating the epidermal cells to produce glycolipids
• The latter are important in the formation of the intercellular lipid lamellar structure.
• It is important to note that this material is a photosensitizer and is recommended for use
during the night.
• Recent developments suggest that aromatic retinoids could present a non-irritant
alternative to tretinoin.

33. VITAMIN C
• Ascorbic acid
• Regulates collagen biosynthesis
• Involved in the wound-healing process
• It also helps to regenerate vitamin E
• Scavenge free radicals
• Ascorbic acid is claimed to inhibit the photo-induced damage of the skin.

34. PROTEINS
1. Hydrolysed protein
2. Amino acids
3. Proteoglycans
• Feeling soft and smooth
• The most popular types include collagen, hyaluronic acid, milk proteins, silk proteins
• Marine proteins

35. ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS
• Gama-Linolenic acid
• Vegetable seed oils
• Evening primrose oil (9-10%)
• Borage oil (23-25%)
• GLA is said to improve the skin's efficiency as a barrier
• Increasing the suppleness and flexibility of the epidermis

36. ΒETA-GLUCANS
• Polysaccharide materials
• Derived from natural oats wheat and baker's yeast.
• They are chemically modified to make them water-soluble
• Yeast BETA-glucans undergo partial carboxymethylation to form carboxy methylated-p(l-
3),(l-6)-glucan.
• Wound healing
• Reduce oxygen radical formation and stimulate the Langerhans' cells

37. ADDITIVES WHICH AID DELIVERY OF
ACTIVES
• Marketing gimmicks
• With a growing number of educated and demanding consumers they have become a
serious formulation tool.
• Microcapsule: Microcapsules represent the oldest controlled-release techniques utilized
in topical formulations. They are composed of a hollow vesicle containing an active
ingredient.
• Liposomes
• Niosomes

38. CYCLODEXTRINS
• Cyclodextrins are starch derivatives
• A unique three-dimensional structure
• They have the ability to incorporate other so-called 'guest molecules’ into their cavity.
• They reduce skin penetration
• Thereby protect the skin from the undesirable properties of the active material.

39. POROUS POLYMERIC SYSTEMS
• Porous polymeric systems act like human cells
• Instead of being surrounded by a membrane wall they are open to the external
environment.
• Allowing movement of molecules in and out
• Release of the active ingredient occurs on the skin surface mainly by the partitioning of
the active between the polymer and the skin.

40. NIGHT PREPARATIONS
• Products which are supposed to be left on the skin overnight serve to provide vital
nutrients to the skin which may have been lost during the day.
• Water-in-oil emulsions
• Massage creams
• Creams and viscous lotions
• Less cosmetically elegant
• waxes

41. WATER-IN-OIL SYSTEMS
• The continuous oil phase has direct contact with the skin and forms a protective film
immediately without any detergent action.
• Water particles are trapped in the oil
• The product is more resistant to being washed off
• Such products have remained popular with people with dry skin.
• Traditional night creams were originally based on the beeswax, borax and mineral oil
systems.

42. TODAY
• Other waxes
• Vegetable oils and silicone oils
• Volatile silicones such as cyclomethicone
• Quaternary ammonium salts
• Distilled lanolin alcohols are excellent water-in oil emulsifiers especially
• A new range of silicone emulsifiers such as lauryl methicone copolyol
• cetyl dimethicone copolyol

43. SILICONE EMULSIFIERS
• These can be used to produce stable water-in-oil formulations with up to 74% water with
little or no waxes.
• Formulations exhibit excellent moisturizing properties combined with improved
aesthetics.

44. 1. Heat (A) to 75°C. Dissolve
preservative in glycerol/water. Add
salt.
2. Add (B) slowly to (A) whilst stirring.
3. Cool to 35°C, add perfume.
4. Homogenize once the cream has
cooled to 25°C.

45. HAND AND BODY LOTIONS
• Similar in formulation to the day moisturizers
• They are usually lotions and sometimes aerosol mousses
• increasing the viscosity of the water phase with agents such as the carbomers and
cellulose derivatives.

46. 1. Heat (A) and (B) independently
to 75°C.
2. Add (B) to (A) slowly with
continuous stirring.
3. Cool to 35°C, add perfume

47. THE FORMULA
• Contains a high level of the humectants
• Glycerol and sorbitol
• The distilled lanolin alcohols may be added to improve the barrier-forming properties on
the skin

48. HAND AND BODY LOTION
1. Heat (A) to 80C.
2. Heat (B) until preservatives are
dissolved.
3. Heat (C) to 80C and add to
(AB) whilst stirring.
4. Cool to 35°C, add perfume .

49. THE FORMULA
• A cationic emulsifier
• Smooth dry afterfeel
• Castor oil derivative
• Methyl cetate ricinoleate is used instead of mineral oil to give a non-greasy product.
• Methyl cellulose (Methocel E4M - Dow Chemical Company) is used to increase the
viscosity of the external water phase as described above.

50. JOJOBA HAND AND BODY LOTION
1. Heat (A) and (B) independently
to 700C.
2. Add (B) to (A) whilst stirring
3. Cool to 35°C and add perfume

51. THE FORMULATION INCLUDES
• Jojoba oil which is a liquid wax as an emollient
• Allantoin for its soothing properties

52. COCOA BUTTER LOTION
1. Heat (A) and (B) independently
to 70C.
2. Add (B) to (A) whilst stirring
3. Cool to 35°C, add perfume

53. THE FORMULATION
• Uuses cocoa butter and lanolin oil, which is rich in cholesterol, to provide excellent
emolliency.
• The emollient ester glyceryl tricaprylate caprate is a reconstituted vegetable oil that
improves the spreading properties of the cream on the skin.
• An antioxidant should be included to prevent any rancidity

54. ALL-PURPOSE PRODUCTS
• All-purpose creams and lotions can be used as a moisturizer or a cleansing cream on
the face, hands and body.
• Light texture and ease of spreading

55. SUN DAMAGE AND SUNSCREEN
PREPARATIONS
• How very different from not too long ago, when a suntan was the sign of an outdoor
working peasant forced to struggle to live off the land.
• The peasant's skin became thick, leathery and brown.
• In Victorian times, elegance and fashion dictated that skin should be white and that
brown skin was indicative of hard labour and poverty.
• 1930s
• A foreign holiday sporting
• The whole Caucasian population desired the new fashion, tanned skin.

56. THERE IS SOME ELEMENT OF TRUTH IN THE
BELIEF THAT A SUNTAN IS BENEFICIAL.
• There can be no doubt that the feeling of well-being it
brings is real and of emotional benefit.
• Sunlight promotes the synthesis of vitamin D
• Reduces the symptoms of the modern ailment SAD
(Seasonal Affective Disorder).

57. THE ADVERSE EFFECTS OF EXCESSIVE
SUN EXPOSURE
• Skin cancer
• The leathery wrinkled appearance of the skin of the middle-
aged Californian lady lazing beside her pool.
• The pain of sunburn
• The pain and redness are transient

58. THE ELECTROMAGNETIC SPECTRUM
• Our sun emits a constant flow of energy in the form of electromagnetic radiation
• The lowest energy radiation takes the form of electric and radio waves with wavelengths
up to 105m
• The highest energy is represented by gamma and cosmic rays with wavelengths as
small as 10-6nm.
• In the middle of this scale lies the region we call sunlight
• lOO nm to 1000 nm

59. SUNLIGHT
• Radiation between lOOOnm and 750nm is the near-infrared, detectable as heat.
• Wavelengths from 750 nm to 400 nm are observed as visible light
• Between 400 nm and lOOnm lies the ultraviolet (UV)
• Such as
• Sunburn,
• Skin ageing
• Tanning,
• Photodermatoses,
• Immunosuppression
• Skin cancer.

60. EARTH'S ATMOSPHERE
• Absorbs virtually all wavelengths of electromagnetic
radiation below 295 nm or thereabouts.
• Cosmic rays
• Gamma rays
• X-rays

61. UV SPECTRUM
• Far-UV radiation (100-200nm)
• UVC (200-280 nm)
• UVB (280-320 nm)
• UVA (320-400 nm)

63. UV C REGION
• This region is described as the germicidal UV because of its ability to kill single-cell
organisms.
• Ozone layer
• UVC radiation is both cytotoxic and capable of producing severe sunburn at very low
exposure levels

64. THE UVB REGION
• UVB is often over-simplistically identified as UV-4B' for burning.
• Contributing approximately 85% of summer sunburn reaction.
• It is also responsible for the initiation of certain skin cancers
• Photodermatosis,
• Premature skin ageing
• The generation of the photoprotective pigment known as melanin which gives our skin
its suntanned appearance.
• On a positive note, UVB is also responsible for synthesis of vitamin D in the skin.

65. THE UV A REGION
• UVA is often over-simplistically identified as UV-'A' for ageing.
• Wrinkling and ageing of the skin.
• Immediate skin pigmentation and delayed pigmentation
• Delayed pigmentation being the tanning response.
• UVA also contributes approximately 15% of the sunburn reaction which occurs as a
result of overexposure to summer sunshine.
• Polymorphic light eruption (PLE), solar urticaria and chronic actinic dermatitis (CAD)

66. UV A
• Several 'photo-active' substances can also produce abnormal skin
reactions as a result of exposure to UVA light.
• Skin cancer
• Immediate pigmentation due to UVA develops after only a few hours
• Reddening
• Tanning may or may not appear

67. TOTAL DOSE OF
THE SUNLIGHT RECEIVED
• Latitude
• Altitude
• Season
• Time of day
• Cloud cover
• Atmospheric pollutants
• etc

68. GLASS
• UVB will not penetrate window glass
• UVA may do so
• Exposure to UVA may continue even when indoors or
whilst driving

69. PENETRATION OF UV RADIATION AND
INTERACTION WITH SKIN COMPONENTS
• Any molecule which is capable of absorbing light is referred to as a chromophore
• UVB penetrates only as far as the basal cell layer and possibly into the upper margins of
the dermis.
• Most adverse effects of UVB arise from the absorption of it on the lower epidermis and
basal cell layer
• Keratinocytes
• Melanocytes
• Langerhans' cells.

70. UVA
• Will penetrate far deeper into the skin, penetrating through the epidermis and deep into
the dermis
• Collagen and elastin
• DNA damage
• The deeper penetration of UVA into skin is due to the lack of suitable natural UVA
chromophores in the epidermis.
• Only the bleached precursor of melanin is able to absorb UVA by an oxidative reaction
this leads to the immediate pigmentation phenomenon.

71. UVB
• The major epidermal chromophore is deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA)
• In most cases this damage is corrected by cellular 'repair' mechanisms
• But occasionally 'repair' is not 100% accurate
• Malignant melanomas, carcinomas and solar keratosis

72. PENETRATION OF SOLAR RADIATION INTO
SKIN

73. SKIN TYPES
• Individuals may be classified into one of six skin types, as described by Fitzpatrick:
I. Always burns easily; never tans
II. Burns easily; tans minimally
III. Burns moderately; tans gradually
IV. Burns minimally; tans easily
V. Rarely burns; tans profusely
VI. Never burns; deeply pigmented

74. FITZPATRICK
• Type I : Caucasian of Celtic origin
• Type VI deeply pigmented, dark-haired Negroid races.
• Type III is typical of 'normal' northern Europeans.
• I and II, the amount of radiation required to initiate melanin production is far greater than
that which will cause erythema.
• For skin types IV and above the reverse applies
• Clearly the choice of appropriate sunscreen protective formulation by an individual
depends heavily on that person's skin type

75. THE CHOICE OF SUN PRODUCT
• With skin types I and II requiring considerably greater protection than skin types IV and
V.
• The first priority of a sun product is to protect the skin from erythemal radiation and
hence sunburn.
• Primarily against UVB wavelengths
• If sun exposure is increased in this way, a sun product which provides only UVB
protection will actually allow the skin to be exposed to increased amounts of UVA
radiation
• Products which screen against both UVA and UVB

76. SUN PROTECTION FACTORS (SPFS)
• It is predominantly, but not entirely, a measure of UVB protection.
• The SPF is measured in vivo using human volunteers following a strict method.
• New and widely used pan European method, The COLIPA SPF Test Method
• The individual national methods were substantially different, which resulted in
differences between SPFs determined in different countries.
• Manufacturers throughout the world have worked together to harmonize procedures
• The lowest dose of UV that is needed to redden the unprotected skin (the minimum
erythemal dose or MED),

77. SIMILARITIES BETWEEN INTERNATIONAL
SPF TEST METHODS

78. SPF TESTING
• The MED is defined as the minimum quantity of radiant energy of specific wavelength or
range of wavelengths which produces the first unambiguous reddening of human skin,
24 hours after exposure.
• The ratio of the dose of energy required to produce a MED on protected skin (MEDp) to
that required to produce an MED on unprotected skin (MEDu).
• Taking a simple example, a person using an SPFlO product will be able to remain
exposed to the radiation for ten times longer than without protection
exposure time to produce erythema (protected skin)
SPF= ________________________________________________
exposure time to produce erythema (unprotected skin)

79. ONE MUST BEAR IN MIND
• That a skin type I person will be protected for much less absolute time than a skin type
IV person using the same SPF product
• Their greater sensitivity to UV radiation and therefore lower MED times

80. MEASURING SPF IN VITRO
• In vitro instrumental methods are widely used in the sun product development process to
screen out potentially poor formulations early in the cycle.
• In vitro techniques can help to eliminate some of the biological variability of in vivo
testing
• In situations in which lack of suitable biological end-points prevents the use of an in vivo
technique
• UVA measurement for example
• The physical absorbance of a sunscreen agent can readily be measured
spectrophotometrically

81. IT WILL NOT ACCURATELY PREDICT THE
SPF!?
• Solvent effects
• Rheological properties of the final preparation
• The surface topography of the medium on which the
sun product is spread

82. SIMULATED SKIN SUBSTRATES
• Skin replicas made from UV-transparent resin
• The intensity of narrow-band UV irradiation transmitted
through the replica was measured using a broad-band UVB
detector
• Before and after product application.
• This method was UVB-specific

83. FOR THE NEWLY EVOLVING SUN PRODUCTS
CONTAINING SIGNIFICANT LEVELS OF UVA
SUNSCREEN
• A textured UV-transparent adhesive tape is used as the substrate to which the product is
applied
• Broad-band (UVB and UVA) light is directed onto the surface of the tape following
application of the test sun product
• A scanning spectroradiometer is then used to measure transmission through the product
treated substrate in 5nm wavelength intervals from 290 nm to 400 nm.
• Reflectance spectrophotometry
• Skin
• The UV radiation has to traverse the sunscreen film twice, whilst scattering at the skin's
surface may also occur, makingmeasurement very complex.

84. MONOCHROMATIC PROTECTION FACTORS
FOR THREE SUN PRODUCTS.

85. MEASURING UVA PROTECTION
• For a long time, educated opinion was that whilst UVB was clearly harmful UVA was
'safe' or even advantageous.
• UVA is now implicated in many serious adverse effects in skin.
• Unfortunately, the biological effects of UVA all tend to be chronic
• Uses UVA radiation to induce erythema in either patients with clinical photosensitivity to
UVA light, normal volunteers with chemically (psoralins) induced photosensitivity or
normal volunteers exposed to high doses of UVA light.
• Dubious ethics

86. A SECOND IN VIVO METHOD
• Utilizes an immediate photo-oxidation reaction in type III and type IV human skin
• Brown-coloured reduced melanin or pre-melanins are converted into their blue-grey
oxidized forms.
• The minimum dose of UVA energy necessary to generate the first perceivable
pigmentation forms the basic unit of measurement.

87. SUNSCREEN AGENTS
1. It must absorb UV light over a broad or specified part of the spectrum without any chemical
breakdown which would lead to a reduction in efficacy or the production of toxic or irritant
by-products.
2. It must possess suitable characteristics to allow it to be readily formulated into cosmetic
vehicles and should be absorbed easily into the skin.
3. It must be resistant to removal by water or sweat.
4. It must not require too-frequent re-application to be effective.
5. It must be highly effective at low concentrations.
6. It must be non-toxic, non-irritant and non-sensitizing.

88. ORGANIC SUNSCREENS
• P-Aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and its derivatives.
• UVB
• Still popular in the USA
• Uncommon in Europe
• Cinnamic acid esters
• Salicylates
• Octyl salicylate:its absorbance being far less than PABA or cinnamate derivatives of
equivalent concentration
• It is often used as a synergist
• Homomenthyl salicylate (homosalate): It is used as a standard in some SPF determinations in
vivo.

89. CAMPHOR DERIVATIVES
• 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene) camphor:
• Widely used in European countries as a UVB sunscreen
• Sunfilter photostability
• This camphor derivative is reported to have superior
photostability
• Improve the photostability of other filters

90. • Menthyl anthranilate
• Employed as a UVA screen
• USA
• It is not permitted in Europe.
• Benzophenones: frequently employed as UVA screens.
• Dibenzoylmethanes: These materials are the most commonly used UVA absorbing
materials, particularly in the EU and USA where they have been allowed.
• Octocrylene: This is a relatively new sunfilter which is allowed in both the EU and the
USA
• Water-soluble sunscreens: 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid is a UVA
screen and 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid is a UVB filter

91. ABSORBANCE OF A SELECTION OF
ORGANIC SUNSCREEN MATERIALS.

92. INORGANIC (PHYSICAL) SUNSCREENS
• A physical sunscreen is an inorganic compound which has radiation
scattering and reflective properties due to its physical form.
• Talc, mica, kaolin and metal oxides
• Zinc oxide is often used in pharmaceutical creams and ointments, use as
a sunscreen lies in its good light-barrier properties, which extend across
the whole of the UVA and UVB wavelength range and, indeed, the visible
spectrum.
• May result in a white appearance of the product on the skin.
• This led to the very white sunblock products which found favour for skiing
and other outdoor sports.

93. TITANIUM
DIOXIDE AS A PHYSICAL SUNSCREEN
• Titanium dioxide has similar light-scattering and reflective properties to zinc oxide, thus
preventing the transmission of UV and visible radiation.
• Its cosmetic acceptability and usefulness have been dramatically improved by the
manufacture of micronized forms with much smaller particle sizes than standard
pigmentary forms.
• Pigmentary titanium dioxide used in the paint industry and in colour cosmetics contains
large particles in excess of 200 nm in diameter.
• Products which contain such low particle size material no longer reflect visible light and
so do not appear white on the skin.

94. ITANIUM DIOX-
IDE EXHIBITS LOW REFLECTION OF VISIBLE
WAVELENGTHS AT PARTICLE SIZES OF ABOUT
50 NM DIAMETER
• As the particle size decreases further, the amount of UVA radiation reflected decreases.
• Commercial grades are available down to about 15 nm and these give very minimal skin
whitening whilst retaining fairly broad-spectrum protection.
• Most UVA light is then transmitted.

95. PARTICLE SIZE EFFECT OF PHYSICAL
SUNSCREEN MATERIALS

96. THE GEL STRUCTURE IS IMPARTED BY THE
CELLULOSE WHICH CAN ALSO BE ADDED TO A
SOLUTION OF ALL INGREDIENTS IN THE
ETHANOL WITH STIRRING UNTIL GELLED.

97. O/W CREAM CONTAINING INORGANIC
SUNSCREEN

98. HAIR SHAMPOOS

99. INTRODUCTION
• Washing the hair and scalp
• Shampoos are probably the most widely used hair products today
• Based on synthetic detergents they are relatively insensitive to water hardness
• In the early days a shampoo could be defined as an effective cleansing agent for hair
and scalp, but today the shampoo must do much more.
• It must leave the hair easy to comb, lustrous and controllable.
• Being convenient and easy to use

100. REQUIREMENTS OF A SHAMPOO
1. To remove sebum (the secretion of the sebaceous glands) and atmospheric pollutants
from the hair and scalp.
2. To remove the residues of previously applied hair treatments, e.g. polymeric
constituents from styling lotions and hair sprays.
3. To deliver an optimum level of foam to satisfy the expectation of the user.
4. To leave the hair in a satisfactory condition after rinsing so that it can be combed
easily both in the wet and dry state.
5. To perform as a vehicle for the deposition of beneficial materials onto the hair and
scalp.
6. To be non-toxic and non-irritating to the hair and the scalp.
7. To be non-damaging to the tissues of the eye if inadvertently splashed.

101. CLASSIFICATION OF SHAMPOOS
• Shampoos are usually classified according to function:
• Anti-dandruff shampoo
• Medicated shampoo
• 2-in-l shampoo
• Mild baby shampoo
• Basic beauty shampoo
• Premium conditioning shampoo.

102. HAIR SOIL
1. Sebum, the oily secretion of the sebaceous
glands.
2. Proteinaceous matter arising from the cell
debris of the stratum corneum layers of the
scalp, and the protein content of sweat.
3. Atmospheric pollutants and residues from other
hair-care products.

103. SEBUM
• Fatty acids of sebum may well be linked to the protein surface of hair through calcium
atoms.
• Squalene is a triterpene containing four unsaturated -C = C- bonds. it is the biosynthetic
precursor of lanesterol.
1. Oily soil or sebum
2. Soluble soils
3. Insoluble particulate soils.

104. THE PROCESS OF SOIL REMOVAL
• All three types of soil require to be wetted
• The surface tension of the water is reduced by the shampoo surfactant allowing full
contact with the soil's surface.
• Soluble soil is removed in the aqueous medium.
• Oily soil or sebum is removed by a process known as 'roll-up', i.e. the displacement of
the soil by the detergent solution.
• Insoluble particulate soils tend to be removed by electrostatic repulsion between the soil
and the hair fibre assisted by repulsion between the surfactant molecules adsorbed onto
the hair fibre and those dissolved onto the soil.

105. MYELENESIS
• Through a microscope
• When a layer of lipid material, even
material of low polarity such as fatty
alcohols, is immersed in water.
• These appear to function like pipes,
transporting the lipid progressively into
the bulk water phase.
• In that region the former surface lipid
coexists within the micelles

106. SUMMARY OF CLEANSING
•The rheological properties of sebum exert a
strong influence upon soil removal
•Detergency plays an important role in the
cleaning of hair with shampoo

107. THE FOAMING OF SHAMPOOS
• The 'signal' to which the user responds when applying a shampoo is how quickly it
builds up lather and how copious that lather is?
1. The rapidity with which the foam is formed
2. The peak volume of the foam
3. The consistency of the lather
• A high-consistency foam is judged as being 'creamy'.
• The shampoo formulator needs to be able to measure the important foaming properties
• Interfacial tension and film modulus

108. ROSS AND MILES
• A standard volume of shampoo
solution is transferred to a tap-funnel.
• The solution in the funnel is run in a
standard time into a large measuring
cylinder which already contains a set
volume of the solution, or merely the
dilution water.
• Volume

109. THE QUANTIFICATION OF THE
CONSISTENCY OF FOAM (CREAMINESS)
• Hart and Degeorge method
• 200 mL of shampoo is added to a blender to and agitated produce foam.
• The foams are introduced to a 0.5 mm mesh at the top of a funnel(182
mm * 23 mm)
• The time which foam reached to a wire in 80 mm of funnels end is
recorded.

110. SHAMPOO INGREDIENTS
• Main detergents
• Foam boosters and stabilizers
• Opacifiers
• Viscosity modifiers, including hydrocolloids and electrolytes
• Special additives for hair condition
• Special additives for scalp health, including antidandruff additives
• Sequestering agents

111. MAIN DETERGENTS
• These are classified according to the way in which they ionize.
• Class 1: Anionics
• Alkyl sulfates
• Alkyl ether sulfates
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono and di-esters (sulfosuccinates):
• The mono-esters are very mild
• Good foaming and detergent properties
• The di-esters are superior for their wetting properties
• Since they are sensitive to hydrolysis and are difficult they tend to be used in
conjunction with alkyl ether sulfates to produce mild shampoos.

112. ISOTHIONATES
•Isothionates are exceptionally mild to skin
and eyes, and are particularly tolerant to
hard water.

113. CLASS 2: NONIONICS
• Materials in this class are not usually the major ingredient of a
shampoo.
• Co-surfactants
• Rheology modifiers
• Solubilizers for insoluble components such as fragrance oils

114. CLASS 3: AMPHOTERICS
• These are defined as having both anionic and cationic charges in the
hydrophilic head.
• The isoelectric point lies between the two extremes at a position where the
two charges are equal.
• Zwitterion
• Does not behave as a surfactant.
• Amphoterics are compatible with all classes of surfactants.
• Beneficial effects on foam and viscosity can be demonstrated and there is
also a synergistic effect on mildness.

115. CLASS 4: CATIONICS
• The surfactants in this group are normally
incompatible with anionics, and, therefore, are
unlikely to be used in shampoo systems.

116. THICKENERS
• Sodium chloride is a suitable additive for a large number of formulae
• A sulfosuccinate has been used as a primary detergent
• polyethylene glycol diesters are much more effective.
• Hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol or cellulose derivatives
• Glucose esters can create difficulties with their rheological profile, but do
enrich the foam characteristics and reduce irritation.

117. PEARLIZERS AND OPACIFIERS
• Opacifying materials give the shampoo a creamy appearance
• A pearlized effect can be created by glycol distearate
• A hot process and inconsistencies are inevitable
• Concentrates
• Latex opacifiers do not have the sparkle of the pearlizers, but are used to
obtain a flat opaque appearance.

118. PRESERVATIVES
• Liquid preservatives may be easier to incorporate
• challenge testing and stability
• The isothiazolinones or parabens are frequently
used

119. PH MODIFIERS
• The isoionoic point for the hair fibre lies between pH
5.6 and 6.2.
• It is advisable to balance the pH of the formulation to
within this range.
• Citric acid is typically used to achieve this.

120. FUNCTIONAL ADDITIVES
• Functional additives are those which promote good condition of the hair.
• Hair in good condition is easy to comb both in wet and dry state.
• The dried hair should be free from 'flyaway', and be lustrous and
manageable.
• Polyquaterniums
• Silicone additives

121. SILICONE ADDITIVES
• Dimethicone copolyols
• Antistatic properties
• Amodimethicones
• Amine salt linkage with the free carboxyl groups of the hair
surface

122. PROTEINS AND AMINO ACIDS
• In recent years the trend has been towards vegetable-derived materials
• Wheat, soya, maize or almond
• It has been shown that protein derivatives can influence the mechanical properties of
hair fibre
• To do this there must be penetration into the cortex or some indirect effect on the cortex.
• The ability to do this will vary depending on size of molecule and charge
• Quaternization of the protein or amino acid reduces the ability to penetrate into the hair
fibre, but increases the substantivity to the cuticle

123. CERAMIDES
• About 0.01% of total hair weight
• Their purpose is to bind the cuticle cells to the cortex and perform a 'barrier' function
• Natural ceramides have a specific stereochemical configuration and show optical
activity.
• This structure is essential for functionality.
• Synthetic ceramides
• Increased protection against UV and visible radiation and limitation of the loss of water-
soluble polypeptides are observable benefits.
• Phytosphingosine

124. PANTHENOL
• The provitamin of pantothenic acid or vitamin B5
• Vitamin B5 is essential for normal hair growth
• Panthenol has also been shown to improve body and texture
of hair together with a moisturizing capability.

125. GLUTAMIC ACID
• Glutamic acid derivatives are the subject of a Unilever
Patent
• These derivatives are a source of hair growth energy
• Significant linear growth stimulation can be obtained
• Penetration enhancers

126. ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS
• This segment has grown so quickly that it now has sales volumes of well over $2.4
billion in the United States
• £300 million in the UK
• From the late 1800s, actors and actresses started experimenting with solutions of
aluminium chloride to make them nicer to be near under the spot-lights in their heavy
theatrical costumes.
• In 1888, MUM was launched in Europe using zinc oxide as an antimicrobial ingredient in
a cream base. This product controlled odour but not wetness.

127. ALUMINIUM
CHLORIDE SOLUTION
• By the early 1900s
• Astringent
• A pH range between 2.5 and 3.0
• Irritation of the skin and considerable fabric
deterioration

128. SELF-BUFFERED ALUMINIUM CHLORIDE
COMPOUNDS
• Known as basic aluminium chlorides or aluminium chlorohydrates.
• Had an internal buffer that maintained a pH of approximately 4
• It was formed by neutralizing some of the acidity of aluminium chloride with aluminium.
• Al2(OH)5Cl • 2.5H2O
• Had advantages of being less irritating with less fabric destruction than aluminium
chloride

129. SODIUM ALUMINIUM CHLORHYDROXY LACTATE
COMPLEX
• In the mid-1950s
• In a sodium stearate-based deodorant stick.
• Although this material provides deodorant properties due to its
antibacterial action
• It has insufficient antiperspirant effectiveness, and is not an
approved active per the Antiperspirant Drug Products Monograph of
the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

130. QUICK-DRY ALCOHOL-BASED PRODUCTS
• Alcohol-soluble ACH (aluminium chlorohydrate
propylene glycol complex)
• Non-aqueous liquid formulations

131. ANTIPERSPIRANTS VS. DEODORANTS
• Most people use the terms 'antiperspirant' and 'deodorant' interchangeably
• An antiperspirant actively reduces the amount of underarm perspiration.
• In the USA, an antiperspirant is classified as an over-the-counter (OTC) drug, since it
has an effect on a bodily function, namely, eccrine sweating.
• Such products are regulated by the FDA
• In the UK, an antiperspirant comes within the definition of a drug
• These products are not subject to 'medicines' legislation at the time of writing.

132. DEODORANT
• A deodorant masks and/or reduces axillary odour through the use of an antimicrobial
agent or a fragrance.
• Deodorants have a non-therapeutic effect only and are regarded as cosmetics
• It should be noted that a 'deodorant' is not an 'antiperspirant', but an 'antiperspirant' is
automatically a 'deodorant'.
• Aluminium salts have bactericidal properties (Section XVI in the FDA Monograph)
• The labels of antiperspirants display the dual description 'antiper spirant/deodorant'.

133. APOCRINE GLANDS
• Develop during childhood and function with the onset of puberty.
• These glands are present in the axillae and urogenital regions
• Their excretory ducts open into hair follicles.
• The secretion from the apocrine glands is the result of emotional stimuli such as
excitement, anger and fear.
• It is a milky substance that primarily consists of fatty acids, cholesterol, and various
steroids

134. ODOUR
• Decomposed by micrococci and diphtheroid bacteria
naturally present on the skin surface.
• 3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid.

135. MECHANISM OF ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTION
• Many different theories have been proposed to explain the mechanism involved in the
reduction of sweat after the topical application of an antiperspirant product.
• The most widely accepted theory of the antiperspirant action is that of diffusion of the
soluble antiperspirant active ingredient into the sweat duct
• Slow neutralization of the acidic metal salt
• A gelatinous and insoluble polymeric aluminium hydroxide-protein gel which acts as a
partial obstructionat the orifice of the sweat gland
• Reducing, but not stopping, the flow of axillary perspiration.

136. EFFICACY STANDARDS
• The Monograph states that in order for an antiperspirant to be
labelled as such it must meet a minimum of 20% sweat
reduction in at least 50% of the test population.
• Hot room study or an antiperspirant effectiveness study
• The basic protocol indicates that gravimetric measurement of
axillary perspiration rates be conducted in a hot room at 1000
F (37.5°C) and 35% relative humidity.

137. EFFICACY
• Most roll-ons and sticks based on approximately 20% of ACH exceed this standard.
• The introduction of aluminium zirconium chlorohydrates in the 1970s produced a sharp
increase in effectiveness.
• Roll-ons and solids based on 20% AZCH provide a 25-40% increase in perspiration
reduction compared to similar ACH-based formulations.
• Even higher levels of efficacy can be achieved with activated AZCH in powder form -
solids, roll-ons or soft solids. Sweat reduction levels of 50-60% can now be achieved.
• In the case of the aerosol, the original powder-in-oil suspension reduces perspiration by
20-30%,

138. PROOF OF EFFECTS CLAIMED
• PROOF OF EFFECTS CLAIMED is a new requirement in Europe
• Advertising and label claims
1. PERFORMANCE
2. MILDNESS
3. FEEL
4. ONSET

139. PERFORMANCE
• ‘UNBEATABLE WETNESS PROTECTION', 'MOST
EFFECTIVE FORMULA', 'NONE BETTER' and
'MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE‘
• They must now be supported by hot room efficacy trials
of the total formulation.

140. PERFORMANCE - DURATION
• 24 hour protection
• Antiperspirant testing at an independent laboratory
• Involves a final sweat collection approximately 24 hours after the final product
application
• 'ALL-DAY PROTECTION', 'DAY-LONG FRESHNESS', 'WORKS ALL DAY', 'KEEPS
YOU FRESH ALL DAY'

141. MILDNESS
• Justified by the exclusion of known irritants such as alcohol
• The careful selection of non-irritant perfumes
• The inclusion of emollients or other known skin-friendly ingredients
• pH BALANCED
• Which may reassure the customer but has no scientific basis since
• The pH of APDs is generally dictated by the pH of the active
• All the actives currently used have a pH between 3.8 and 4.4

142. FEEL
• NON-STING
• Alcohol is a primary irritant and is the source of the stinging
sensation.
• Excluding alcohol from the formulation will reduce the level of
stinging
• The addition of emollients or aloe, allantoin, etc.

143. FEEL(NON-STICKY)
• Stickiness is a function of formulation and drying time
• All water-based formulations will feel more or less sticky during the drying
phase
• In quick-dry formulations, alcohol and volatile silicones accelerate drying
• Oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions
• Anhydrous formulations where the active goes on dry - aerosols, solid
sticks, soft solid suspensions - are truly non-sticky.

144. BODY RESPONSIVE
• Antiperspirant actives are inert in dry form and react with
perspiration only when they are dissolved by it
• Eccrine sweating is triggered by excessive body temperature
and the resultant sweat dissolves the antiperspirant deodorant
active

145. VOC
• VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS
• Propellants, solvents, and non-solvent/non-propellant volatile
organic compounds
• High volatility organic compounds, i.e. a compound that exerts
a vapour pressure greater than 80 mmHg at 20°C
• Medium volatility organic compounds

146. PRODUCTFORMS
• Roll-on
• Aerosol
• Solid (stick)
• Gels
• In terms of marketing, the aerosol had the greatest impact because of its hygienic and
shareable advantages.
• In the USA it seems that customers like solids, gels and soft solids because there is no
waste

147. ACTIVE INGREDIENT FORMS
1. Aqueous solution (concentrations up to 50% in water
for ACH and 46% for AZCH)
2. All forms of powders (various particle sizes and
shapes)
3. Propylene glycol solutions.

148. POWDER TYPES
• Macrospherical powder is composed of relatively large, dense spheres
and a minimum number of small particles (10% less than 10 microns) for
aerosol use and low-residue solids.
• Super ultrafine particles
• Suspension sticks and suspension roll-ons
• Spray-dried powder
• Widely used in aerosol suspensions

149. CREAM
• Heat A and B separately to 700 ˚C
• Slowly add B to A with continuous
mixing
• Cool to 400 ˚C.
• Add C
• Homogenize and pour into suitable
containers

150. STICKS AND SOLIDS
• Deodorant sticks are typically based on sodium stearate as the gelling agent for either
propylene glycol or alcohol.
• They also contain an anti-microbial agent, humectant and perfume.
• Combine A and C and heat to 70˚C
• Add B and D mix until clear
• Cool to 65°C.
• Add E Pour into suitable containers at 60˚C

151. STICK ANTIPERSPIRANT DEODORANTS
• Add B to A. Heat to 65-75°C
• Add D
• Add C, mix until clear
• Add E, mix until clear. Cool to 60˚C
• Add F
• Pour into suitable containers at 55°C
CHLORACEL: SODIUM ALUMINUM CHLORHYDROXY LACTATE

152. FORMULATION AND
EVALUATION OF DEPILATORIES

153. INTRODUCTION
• Chemical means of hair removal from skin (in particular superfluous hair
occurring on the face, legs, axilla, etc), without causing any injury to the skin
• Other methods of hair removal
1. Mechanical removal of hair
2. Destruction of hair by use of laser energy
3. Shaving

154. MECHANISM OF ACTION
• Hair is composed primarily of proteins (88%)
• These proteins are of a hard fibrous type known as keratin
• Keratin proteins form the cytoskeleton of all epidermal cells
• The amino acid cysteine is a key component of the keratin proteins in hair fiber
• The sulfur in the cysteine molecule links together by disulfide chemical bonds
• These disulfide chemical bonds linking the keratins together are the key factor in
the durability and resistance of hair fiber to degradation under environmental stress

155. MECHANISM
• They are largely resistant to the action of acids but the disulfide bonds can be
broken apart by alkali solutions
• Care should be taken
• Preparation reacts with the hair preferentially
• Its effects will be sufficiently rapid
• To cause disintegration of the hair, before causing any damage to the underlying and the
surrounding skin

156. THE QUALITIES OF AN IDEAL DEPILATORY
SHOULD BE AS
FOLLOWS:
• Non toxic and non irritant to the skin
• Fast and efficient in action, preferably causing depilation within five minutes
• Preferably odourless
• Should be stable upon storage
• Non-staining/damaging to the clothing
• Cosmetically elegant

157. FORMULATION OF DEPILATORIES
• Alkaline reducing agent(s)
• Perfume(s)
• Emulsifier(s)
• Emolient(s)
• Thickening agent(s)
• Humectant(s)
• Miscellaneous agent(s)

158. ALKALINE REDUCING AGENT
• These agents will cause the hair fibres to swell and cleave the cystine bridges
between adjacent polypeptide chain
• Sulphides
• Barium polysulphide was the first agent to be used and later
• Orpiment: As2S3
• Produce rapid depilation
• Lime
• Nowadays sodium sulphide has replaced with other milder agents
• Strontium sulphide has a milder action than sodium sulphide, but needs to be used at
a much higher concentration
• Sulphide containibg depilatories are less popular nowadays because they produce the
odour of hydrogen sulphide on application

159. STANNITES
• Cu2FeSnS4
• Stannum
• Soluble stannites
• Stannites offer the advantage that they do not have an appreciable odour but they
tend to suffer from instability
• Forming stannates in the presence of water
• A number of stabilizers, such as soluble silicates, triethanolamine, sugars, etc.
• But were not found to be effective and did not produce stable preparations

160. SUBSTITUTED MERCAPTANS
• These are the most widely used agents nowadays and are used in conjunction with
calcium hydroxide
• Thioglycollic acid in the form of its alkaline salts is the agent of choice
• It is a common practice to blend sodium and calcium thioglycollate usually in
ratios of 1:2 or 1:3 (Na to Ca)
• Calcium hydroxide, present in excess, serves to control the pH and also acts as
an alkali reservoir
• The solubility of calcium and strontium hydroxides and thioglycolates might be a
problem in some cases
• Thiolactic acid, thioglycerol

161. PERFUMES
• Particularly sulphides, generate the odour of hydrogen sulphide on application
• The use of perfumes is almost a necessity in depilatory products
• The perfume materials used are aromatic alcohols, ketones, anise, safrol and
rose
Emulsifiers
• The common emulsifiers used are mainly ethylene dioxide ethers of fatty alcohol
soaps
• sodium lauryl sulphate and other anionics are rarely used for reasons of cosmetic
elegancy and potential irritancy

162. EMOLLIENTS
• The common emollients used include mineral oils and paraffins
Thickening agents
• Synthetic thickening agents, such as methyl, hydroxyethyl or carboxyl methyl
cellulose, are used
• The earlier formulations employed the use of materials such as zinc stearate, talc,
colloidal clay, titanium dioxide, starch, precipitated chalk, etc.
Humectants
• Humectants such as glycerine, sorbitol, propylene glycol, etc.
• Incorporated to prevent quick drying on the skin

163. ENZYMES
• Protein-digesting enzymes, such as papain (found in the fruit and leaves of the
paw-paw tree)
• Progressive depilatory
• It acts pro gressively on hair growth over a period of many months
• The treatment is repeated for 3 days at a time on the face, and for 5 days on the body

164. EVALUATION OF DEPILATORIES
Tensile kinetics method
• In this method, stress decay caused by disulfide bond reduction is measured
• Tensile strength tester
• The time required to reduce the stress supported by hair by 95% (T95%) was
shown to correlate to in-vivo hair removal rate in commercial products
Thermo-Mechanical method
• In this method a thermomechanical analyzer is used to measure the
time at which a hair bundle, underconstant stress and immersed in
depilatory, begins to stretch
• Tension probe
• The test is carried out under isothermal conditions

165. THERMOMECHANICAL ANALYZER

166. DEPILATORY POWDER
• Dissolve the menthol in perfume oil
• Add some starch to it by rubbing
• Sift the titanium dioxide and barium sulfide
together
• Then mix and sift the remaining starch
• Next add it to the menthol-perfume mixture
• Mix the entire batch for about half an hour, and
then pack
Formula %
Titanium dioxide 23
Barium sulfide 35
Wheat starch 40
Menthol 0.2
Perfume 1.8

167. DEPILATORY PASTE
• Dissolve methyl cellulose into water and mix
glycerine with it
• Sift strontium sulphide and talc into the above
mixture
• Slowly and stir thoroughly, until a smooth paste is
obtained
Formula %
Strontium sulphide 20
Talc 20
Methyl cellulose 3
Glycerine 15
Water 42

168. DEPILATORY CREAM
• Heat (A) to 90ºC, hold with sheer agitation for 20
minutes. Cool to 75ºC,
• Add premelted (B) Gradually cool, continue the
agitation to 55ºC.
• Add (C). Product will thin out upon adding (C).
• Gradually cool to 40-45ºC, with agitation and add the
fragrance and mix

169. DEPILATORY LOTION
• Slowly add magnesium aluminium silicate to the
water, while agitating at maximum available
shear. Continue mixing until smooth
• Add (B) to (A).
• Heat (C) to 70ºC, then add with stirring. Cool to
45ºC, add Calcium thioglycolate and stir.
• Add Calcium hydroxide, stir until cool and
uniform
• Add (E)

170. WARNING TO CONSUMERS
• Manufacturers advise consumers to conduct a skin test 24 hours before full use
• If irritation occurs during treatment or within 24 hours, use should be discontinued
• Advice given is that the depilatory should not be used on eyebrows, near eyes or on
inflamed or broken skin; and not immediately before or after using soap, deodorant
or any perfumed product
• If any adverse skin reaction occurs, the consumer is advised to remove the cream
• Bathe the area with a solution of 1 part lemon juice/vinegar to 7 parts of water
• Cream depilatories are left on the skin for 4-10 minutes for fine hair, arid up to 15
minutes for coarse hair

171. SUGARING
• The latest method of hair removal to find its way into beauty salons
• An ancient art used for centuries in African and Arabian countries
• The hair is removed by using a small piece of specially formulated putty-like substance
consisting of sugar, lemon juice and water.

172. ADVANTAGES CLAIMED FOR THE
SUGARING PROCESS
• The 'ouch' factor is lower than from conventional waxing methods because only
small areas are treated at a time, and the treatment becomes less painful after
only a few sessions.
• Sugaring removes the top layer of dead cells from the skin's surface, leaving it
silky and smooth
• After a short period of use the growth of hair becomes sparse and with continued use
has been known to stop altogether
• The ingredients are all natural which reduces the risk of allergies and any related
problems for sensitive skins
• It is more hygienic because the sugaring pieces are discarded after use

173. SUGAR RECIPE
• Add the lemon juice to the sugar mix and heat
for 10 min or until the sugar is caramellized to a
golden brown
• Remove from the heat then add the glycerol
• Apply in strips, when cool enough
• Cover with strips of cloth or cellophane and press
down
• When ripped off as fast as possible the hairs
come off embedded in the strips
• This is suggested for use on the legs
Granulated sugar 500 g
Juice, 1
lemon
Glycerol 7 mL