Jewels from the past took center stage during this year’s awards season as they were recreated in “new”jewelry designs. The following slides show the jewels worn by stars at the 2016 Academy Awards and Golden Globes that were influenced by jewelry styles of the past.

1. Revival Jewels for the 21st Century
Academy Awards and Golden Globes 2016
By Aurelia Turrall

2. Old is New Again in Jewellery
Jewels from the past took centre stage during this year’s awards season as they were
recreated in “new” jewellery designs.
The following slides show the jewels worn by stars at the 2016 Academy Awards and
Golden Globes that were influenced by jewellery styles of the past.

3. Nature is an infinite source of inspiration
Nature has always been the primary source of inspiration for jewellery
creations and the primary material used to produce it
Coral Amber Ivory

4. Early findings
A stone age burial in Brittany dating
from 5000-7000 BC shows the skeletons
of two women who were buried wearing
necklaces made of numerous shells and
sea snails
The earliest finding of jewellery was
dated around 25,000 years ago. A
necklace made of fish bone, found in a
cave in Monaco, but they are believed to
be as old as 40,000 years old

5. Timeless bib necklace
Bibs come in all shapes and forms
and have been made of all sorts of
material since necklaces came into
existence
Jennifer Lawrence wearing a Chopard
necklace from the High Jewelry Collection at
the Golden Globes
The necklace is set with 156.77 carats of
diamonds and 18 carat white gold

6. The evolution of the bib necklace
The collar was a favourite of the gods and the pharaohs
and from the Eighteenth Dynasty (c. 1543–1292 BC) in
Ancient Egypt. They were given to officials, dignitaries
and soldiers as a mark or honour. The collars were often
made of gold and gemstones.
The Maasai tribe in Kenya articulate their identity
and position in society by displaying beadwork,
through body paint and ornaments. Currently,
dense, opaque glass beads with no surface
decoration and a naturally smooth finish are
preferred.
Made of precious metals (copper and silver),
gemstones (Feldspar, Carnelian, Jasper,
Turquoise and Lapis), stone and faience have
also been recovered
White beads were made from clay, shells, ivory, or bone. Black and blue
beads were made from iron, charcoal, seeds, clay, or horn. Red beads
came from seeds, woods, gourds, bone, ivory, copper, or brass.

7. Gold bibs
Bib necklace made of
coins
Elizabeth Taylor in
Cleopatra

8. Pearl bibs
A pearl and diamond necklace, by Cartier, 1953,
Sotheby’s Geneva, 15th Mary 2008, sold CHF
385,000 (£372,000), composed of twelve
graduated rows of natural pearls

9. Classical and Hellenistic revival
Olivia Palermo at the
Golden Globes, gold leaf
necklace by David Webb
The period from 325 BC until the rise of the Roman empire
in 27 BC is called the Hellenistic Period, a time where gold
became plentiful again in Greece. Gold mining operations
in Thrace initiated by Philip II and Alexander's successful
campaigns to the East brought bounties from Persia. The
jewellery production from the 3rd century BC remained in
tradition with that of the classical period.

10. Classical period
Naturalistic wreaths emerged over the 5th century BC and became popular during the 4th
century BC

11. Hair ornament in archaeological style, late 19th century
A gold diadem, by Castellani, circa 1870
Castellani, (1814 – 1930), was the Italian
jeweller who initiated the archaeological
revival movement in the mid-nineteenth
century. In 1836, when the Etruscan
Regolini-Galassi tombs were opened,
papal authorities invited him to study the
jewellery there. This is where he got his
inspiration from.

12. Archaeological revival in the late 19th century
A gold necklace of laurel leaves, by Phillips of Cockspur
Street, London, circa 1870
Robert Phillips, 1810-1881, created archaeological
revival jewellery in London along with John Brodgen

13. Snake jewels
Jared Leto at the
Academy Awards,
crystal detail by Gucci

14. 19th century snake jewel
The coiled snake is symbol of eternity
and was very popular in the 1840s
The serpent jewel was so popular that
models were made with less precious
stones such as turquoise and garnets
rather than diamonds and rubies, to
suit all budgets
We notice a shift in the style around
1875, when the snake becomes a
dragon with teeth showing

15. Bulgari's Serpenti Collection
The Serpenti collection became
fashionable in the 1960s with
Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra

16. Bulgari’s Serpenti Collection
Naomi Watts wearing
Bulgari ‘Serpenti’
The collection was created
in the 1950s

17. Belle Époque choker, or collier de chien (dog collar)
A Belle Époque pearl and
diamond choker, circa
1910, Bonhams NY, 17th
June 2008, estimate USD
15,000-20,000
Olivia Wilde at the Academy
Awards wearing a diamond and
seed pearl chocker

18. Dog collars and pearl necklaces
Princess Alexandra of
Wales
A pearl and diamond
choker
The choker or dog collar was perhaps the
most characteristic neckwear of this
period. Evening dog collars were made of
as many as twelve rows of small pearls,
set at intervals with diamond bars,
diamond plaques of delicate scrollwork
design.
The fashion for dog collars and strings of
pearls, worn severally, was led by
Alexandra, Princess of Wales, who very
often wore a pearl choker combined with
strings of pearls on her décolletage.

19. Belle Époque choker
A Belle Époque diamond choker, by Cartier, circa
1905, Sotheby’s Geneva, 13th November 2013,
estimate £250,000 - 375,000

20. Belle Époque floral motifs
Velvet ribbon with a
diamond floral plaque
Brie Larson at the Academy
Awards wearing Niwaka floral
hair ornament

21. 1950s jewellery
Lady Gaga at the Golden Globes in 1950s glamour
à la Marilyn Monroe with diamond cuff bracelet
and jewels by Neil Lane

22. 1950s Boucheron
A diamond ‘Torsade’ bangle, by Suzanne
Belperron, diamonds approximately 20.70
carats total, Estimate: $63,000-94,000
A 1950s sapphire and
diamond bangle

23. 1950s scrolls
A diamond double-clip bangle, circa 1950, Bonhams
London, sold for £4,500
A diamond double-clip brooch, circa
1950, Bonhams London, £3,000

24. 1950s diamond earhoops
Julianne Moore at the
Academy Awards wearing
Chopard diamond earrings
A diamond and platinum clip brooch, circa
1950, Bonhams NY, sold for $2,000

25. 1960s
Kerry Washington wearing Harry Winston
1963 three-row diamond drop earrings at the
Academy Awards, set with over 40 carats of
diamonds, and three-row diamond ring, set
with 12.02 carats of diamonds, both set in
platinum
Matching sets are very much un favour in the 60s and 70s.
Cascades of diamonds of cluster design are fashionable and
typical of the time. We step away from 1950s scrolls and use of
all sorts of cuts to pursue a more traditional design when it
comes to high value stones.

26. Sapphire suite, 1965
A sapphire and diamond necklace and a
pair of sapphire and diamond earclips, by
Bulgari, circa 1965, Sotheby’s 14th
November 2012, sold CHF 482,500
(£342,000)

27. Sapphire riviere 1960s to today
Tina Fey wearing a
sapphire and diamond
necklace, by Bulgari at
the Academy Awards

28. 1970s Bulgari necklace
Olivia Wilde wears a late 1970s
Bulgari necklace with carnelian
intaglio and diamonds at the Golden
Globes
4th century Etruscan
Intaglio ring
1970s Bulgari necklace with ruby and
diamond
Towards the end of the1970s the fashion
for shorter necklaces comes back as
opposed to sautoirs which highlighted
frilly blouses. Design is turned toward
rigid yellow gold structures, pave-set
with diamonds and semi-precious stones,
such as the carnelian.

29. Necklaces overlaid a la Princess of Wales
Jennifer Lopez and Helen Mirren
both in Harry Winston jewellery at
the Golden Globes, layering
diamond necklaces with different
cut diamonds, making it fun and
modern. JLo also wore a fancy
yellow diamond ring and pair of
earrings totalling over 200 carats in
diamonds.
Even though the necklaces are
modern, the style is repeated from
the one introduced by Princess
Alexandra of Wales

30. Modern and unique designs are rare
Whoopi Goldberg wearing
a pearl and diamond
octopus cuff, by Sevan
Bicakci at the Academy
Awards was the rare
celebrity to take a risk
with truly unique jewellery

31. Credits
Wikipedia “Shell Jewelry”
Pinterest
Wikipedia “Maasai People”
Esty.com
Mywedding.com
Cleopatra
Sotheby’s
Bonhams
David Webb
Gemobsessed.com
Antiques Jewelry University
Understanding Jewellery, Daniela Mascetti
and David Bennett
Usmagazine
Diamondregistry.com
Phillips of Cockspur Street, London
Cartier
Forbes
Christie’s
Mauboussin
Myciin.com
Jewelsdujour.tumblr.com
Chopard
Harpersbazaar.com
Harry Winston
Bulgari
Wixonjewelers.com
Platinumjewelry.com
Sevan Bicakci
Instyle
Gogmsite.com
Suzanne Belperron
Niwaka
Gucci