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穿好衬衫,[object Object],形象成功第一步,[object Object],穿衣保守,[object Object],主义手册,[object Object],衬衫篇,[object Object],张翼轸@理性谈风月,[object Object],http://blog.earlzhang.com,[object Object]
衬衫演变史,[object Object],古罗马时期,[object Object],内侧的托尼卡(tonica),[object Object],作为内衣出现,套头开口无领,两袖无口,[object Object],十九世纪,[object Object],美国商人为衬衫增加了立领,并增加了前开襟设计,衬衫无需再套头穿入,[object Object],现代衬衫,[object Object],诺曼底贵族因气候寒冷将领口、袖口用绳子扎起来,有了装饰性,[object Object],十四世纪,[object Object]
穿好衬衫,[object Object]
好的布料,[object Object],好的做工,[object Object],上佳衬衫,[object Object],对的款式,[object Object]
什么是好的布料?,[object Object],好的布料,[object Object],好的做工,[object Object],上佳衬衫,[object Object],对的款式,[object Object]
天然材质是不二之选,[object Object]
【扩展阅读】,[object Object],亚麻衬衫:为自己而穿,[object Object],亚麻天然的透气性、吸湿性、清爽性,在常温下能使人体室感温度下降4—8℃,被称为“天然空调”。在中世纪,亚麻是最流行的材质。十九世纪最著名的花花公子宝隆•布兰麦说:如果你拥有许多高级的亚麻恤衫,一定要用农村式的洗涤法;而当时以英国最佳穿着者铸成的朱利安•皮尔帕门则骄傲的说“我每星期都把恤衫运到巴黎送洗”,至于作家R•T•沙迪亚则认为“身为绅士,一天必须准备两件恤衫”。,[object Object],不要害怕因为亚麻易皱而被人视作邋遢,真正懂行的人一眼就可以看出你是一个讲究衣着,为自己而穿的人,至于那些看不出这些的人,我想你也不会去在意他们的意见吧。,[object Object]
 纯棉材质的好坏,[object Object],好的衬衫面料,柔软但有筋骨,[object Object],好棉花,埃及棉 、 海岛棉和比马棉最佳;,[object Object],就技术层面,好的棉料,是要双股纺织的,衬衫上若标明2-ply那就是了;,[object Object],面料支数越高越好,80-100支很不错,120支以上就是高档货,200支以上很稀少,300支最顶级;,[object Object],名牌布料自然更佳,如Alumo, Albini, Thomas Mason,部分品牌会将布料品牌以布标形式告知,[object Object]
 布料花纹同样重要,[object Object],素色,[object Object],以淡蓝、淡粉和淡黄最经典,暗纹可增加玩味,[object Object]
【扩展阅读】,[object Object],那些经典颜色,[object Object],诺曼底时代,衬衫颈口的V字型开口是当时贵族扮靓的重要战场。由于当时纽扣还未流行,所以无法通过纽扣将V字型开口闭合,于是便只能通过褶边来加以掩饰。,[object Object],而为了使褶边更加美观,于是便采用了上浆的处理方法,由于当时技术的限制,浆的颜色主要是淡蓝色和淡黄色。也许由于当时上浆的主要都是有钱的贵族,而他们的这种颜色取舍也就成为了一时的风尚,这可能就是后世将淡蓝和黄色作为经典衬衫颜色的一个重要原因吧。,[object Object]
 布料花纹同样重要,[object Object],竖纹,[object Object],较素色增加变化,但依然不失严谨,[object Object]
 布料花纹同样重要,[object Object],格纹,[object Object],变化更多,有玩味。英伦风首选,[object Object]
什么是对的款式?,[object Object],好的布料,[object Object],好的做工,[object Object],上佳衬衫,[object Object],对的款式,[object Object]
 独领风骚靠衣领,[object Object],从领宽和领长上来分,一般可分为标准领、长领、宽领,进而衍生出超短领,超宽领,超长领等。领型担任了脸型框架的任务,应当与穿着者的脸型搭配合适。,[object Object]
 独领风骚靠衣领,[object Object],由于领型一定程度上担任了脸型框架的任务,所以对于脸型过宽的人尖领就会起到比较好的修饰作用。而领带则以小结(比如平结)搭配比较适宜,[object Object],对于脸型过长的人就要努力使其看上去略微短一些,那么宽领就比较合适了;而领带则以宽领搭配大结(比如温莎结),[object Object],图示来源 Alan Flusser: Dressing the Man,[object Object]
 独领风骚靠衣领,[object Object],凡事都有例外,只要你够自信,[object Object],经典电影《乱世佳人》中的莱斯利•霍华德(Leslie Howard)脸型比较窄,理应采用宽领比较合适,但是其却喜欢使用长领来强化其瘦长的脸型,反而独有风味。,[object Object],查尔斯王子(Prince of Wales)在用宽领修饰瘦长脸型的时候,反而喜欢使用比较小的平结,当然其平结结下的涟漪恰到好处也是另有一番风味.,[object Object]
 独领风骚靠衣领,[object Object],两类非传统领型,[object Object],纽扣领(Button-down),[object Object],源于英国马球竞赛的服装,Brooks Brothers将其应用于衬衫。,[object Object],纽扣领适合休闲或者休闲商务风格,而不适合最正统的商务风格。,[object Object],异色领(Bishop Collar),[object Object],用白色制作领口和袖口,搭配蓝白或粉红白色竖纹最为正统,如今搭配素色也不少。,[object Object],类似于神父衣着,亦被称为传教士领,很正式同时也是很出彩的领型,本人很喜欢。,[object Object]
领尖撑,[object Object],作为正装的衬衫,我们需要一个坚挺的领子。而这个依靠布料本身的质地很难做到,所以我们就需要额外的辅助配件——领尖撑。,[object Object],领尖撑,一般使用塑料片制作的。一件好的衬衫,其领尖撑应该可以取出,以避免洗涤和熨烫时的磨损。,[object Object],一家好的正装衬衫制作商会随衬衫提供额外的领尖撑做后备(就像后备纽扣一样),或者提供领尖撑的零售。,[object Object]
 袖里乾坤的风情,[object Object],最传统的衬衫袖口,[object Object],是不是觉得够乏味,[object Object]
 袖里乾坤的风情,[object Object],法式双叠袖+袖扣,[object Object],更正式更多玩味,[object Object]
袖扣代表你的心,[object Object]
什么是好的做工?,[object Object],好的布料,[object Object],好的做工,[object Object],上佳衬衫,[object Object],对的款式,[object Object]
 好衬衫:细节在魔鬼中,[object Object],7点好细节,[object Object],1,[object Object],正如此前介绍的,好的衬衫必须使用可拆卸的领尖撑。,[object Object],2,[object Object],背部采用两片式设计,以更好的适应不同人的身形,尤其是左右肩膀不对称的情况,[object Object]
 好衬衫:细节在魔鬼中,[object Object],7点好细节,[object Object],3,[object Object],严格按照面料花纹对称的工艺要求:左右门襟上条纹对称,肩膀条纹与左右袖子条纹吻合……,[object Object],4,[object Object],单针车缝,每英寸22针,衬衫的韧度和防磨性大大加强。,[object Object]
 好衬衫:细节在魔鬼中,[object Object],7点好细节,[object Object],5,[object Object],珍珠贝壳钮扣,最下面的一颗纽扣的纽门采用横向缝制,保证衬衫上下不走动。,[object Object],包龙骨,下摆有开衩的衬衫可因此避免开衩因为脱线或者受力而进一步扩大,加强耐穿性,[object Object],6,[object Object]
 好衬衫:细节在魔鬼中,[object Object],7点好细节,[object Object],7,[object Object],袖口多褶裥,增加灵活性。袖口开叉处有纽扣,且钮孔方向与手臂方向垂直,避免钮孔横向受力变形,[object Object],图示来源 Bernhard Roetzel: Gentleman,[object Object]
衬衫圣街:Jermyn Street,[object Object],位于英国伦敦的Jermyn Street云集了全英乃至全球最顶尖的衬衫定制商,其中更有英国王室御用品牌。,[object Object],拥有一件来自Jermyn Street的定制衬衫,其意义也许不亚于女生拥有一只2.55包。,[object Object]
华人骄傲:Asocot Chang,[object Object],好衬衫并非至来自于英国。上海裁缝早在上个世纪三四十年代就享誉全球。而张子斌(Ascot Chang)则是其中的佼佼者。其以名字创办的衬衫定制品牌被Robb Reporter评为全球最佳衬衫。,[object Object],目前上海、香港均有专卖店,可谓是离我们最近的大师级衬衫。,[object Object]
更多衬衫……,[object Object],如果你希望了解更多关于衬衫或者其它男士经典服饰,[object Object],2阅读我写的一本小书,[object Object],1访问我的博客,[object Object],当当销售链接,[object Object],卓越销售链接,[object Object],http://blog.earlzhang.com/,[object Object]

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男士穿衣保守主义手册 衬衫

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