Reserve Compilation

Compilation July 2014 — February 2015

Sponsored by:
July 2014
www.bloombergbriefs.com
Bloomberg Global Top Five*
London
1. — Celeb central.Chiltern Firehouse
2. — See your food swim first.Beast
3. — New Jason Atherton. City Social
4. — Atherton again.Berners Tavern
5. — Posh super Indian.Gymkhana
New York
1. — Bobby Flay returns.Gato
2. — Rocking retro Italian.Carbone
3. — Classic, fun Italian. L'Artusi
4. — Popular Italian.Quality Italian
5. — Best in NYC.Sushi Nakazawa
Hong Kong
1. — Rocking burgers.CaliBurger
2. — Like the name says.Fish & Meat
3. — Chinese meets NYC. Mott 32
4. — Classic French.Cocotte
5. — Burgers & rooftop.Beef & Liberty
Paris
1. — Perfect bistro.Chez Georges
2. — Still trendy French.Hotel Costes
3. — An American in Paris. Spring
4. — Popular bistro.Le Chateaubriand
5. — Vegetable Valhalla.L'Arpege
Peter Elliot introduces the all new
Bloomberg Brief: Reserve, talks steak
sticker shock and more. Click photo to
launch or go to: http://bit.ly/1qwcvlL
*Top is compiled from on theDINE <GO>
Bloomberg Terminal. The formula
includes hits, reviews and ratings.
The Old Fashioned Way to a Great Table: Be a Regular
BY PETER ELLIOT
The restaurant world is going wild about how technology will change the way we make
or buy reservations. (See interview, page 8.) For those willing to put in the effort,
however, there's a far more traditional way of securing a table: become a regular. No
restaurateur in the world turns away a steady customer. Ever.
With so many options available, many of us continue sampling new places and never
become regulars anywhere. Still, for those who like a certain kind of restaurant, returning
over and over again has its perks. They know your name; all you have to do is get to
know theirs, return on a consistent basis, tip well, be friendly but not cloying and you'll
become a regular in no time. The first few times, book your tables for 5:30 p.m. or 9:30
p.m. to guarantee a spot, and before you know it, you'll be dining at primetime.
Below are six restaurants where you should consider becoming a regular.
London
1. : Possibly the most usefulLe Caprice
restaurant in the world. Open late, chic
and delicious. Get in here and the whole J
Sheekey, The Ivy and Soho House world
opens its doors for you.
2. Fergus Henderson restoredSt. John:
British food to the British. Become a
regular here and you'll be at the epicenter
of the nose-to-tail eating.
3. : This once favoriteLaunceston Place
of Princess Diana is just as clubby as it
was in the '90s. Now owned by D&D
London, this is a restaurant group (Orrery,
3 South Place, Le Pont de la Tour, etc.)
that knows a good customer.
New York
1. The crown jewel of ChefMarea:
Michael White and Merrill Lynch alum
Ahmass Fakahany's empire. Become a
regular here and you'll be rubbing
shoulders with Bill Gates in no time.
2. : Where the downtownMinetta Tavern
set wants to see and be seen. Get to
know Keith McNally's (Balthazar) crew
and you'll be eating Black Label burgers
and using the secret number to book.
3. : Perhaps the hottest of theCarbone
hot. Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi are
expanding their mini empire (Parm, ZZ's
Clam Bar). Become a charter member
and hang on for a wild and delicious ride.
Source: Altamarea Group
These are the power tables in the front room at Marea on New York's Central Park South.

July 2014 Bloomberg Brief Reserve 2
IF/THEN
If You Like Tao Downtown, Then You'll Love...
Restaurants like Tao pander shamelessly to people who just want to have good food and
drink in a stupendous space and take in the local scenery. No wonder Tao is the most
profitable restaurant group in the world right now. Below are some similar restaurants
you'll likely enjoy if Tao is at the top of your list.
IF: TAO DOWNTOWN
92 Ninth Ave, New York, NY, 10011
Setting: Jaw dropping.
Food: Pan Asian for everyone.
Bar Scene: Serious. Multiple locales.
Noise Level: Surprisingly audible.
Date Factor: A place she can dress for.
Groups: More spaces for more kinds of
parties than anyplace in NYC.
Secrets: Get known and the whole Tao
Group club world can open for you.
THEN: THESE EQUIVALENTS
London
Sushisamba:
On the 38th floor of the Heron Tower, this
is the new post-work pub alternative.
110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY
Novikov:
All things to all rich Londoners. Fancy
basement bar, a pan-Asian restaurant,
and some Italian for good measure.
50a Berkeley St., W1J 8HA
Hakkasan:
The granddaddy of chic Chinese super
rooms. The original is still the best both
for the food and the scene.
8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HD
Singapore
Ku De Ta:
Everyone loves the infinity pool and
rooftop bar 57 stories up.
1 Bayfront Ave. 018971
Las Vegas and Dubai
Tao and , respectively, areHakkasan
even more jaw dropping in the desert.
Tao: The Venetian, S Las Vegas Blvd.
Hakkasan: Jumeirah Emirates Tower
Fischer's: From the Wolseley team
Corbin & King, their ode to an all day
(and late night) Viennese experience.
Polpo: The popular Italian tapas
concept spreads to Notting Hill.
The Palomar: The U.K. outpost of
super hip nouveau-Israeli
Machneyuda in Jerusalem.
Heartwood: Cozy modern American
from Nick Mautone, the ex-manager
of Gramercy Tavern. Chefs and
foodies are already claiming tables.
Union Bar & Kitchen: Jonathan
Renert leaves Wall Street (Jefferies,
Merrill Lynch) for a kitchen in SoHo.
Altesi: Savore owners expand to
UES Gold Coast with a Tuscan menu
and a sexy rooftop bar.
Cherche Midi: Keith McNally of
Balthazar/Minetta fame tries classic
French in the failed Pulino's space.
Dalloyau: One of the oldest
patisseries in Paris (300 years plus,
they say) makes its way East.
JUST OPENED
London
New York
Hong Kong

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Source: Tao Group
The cavernous main dining room at Tao.

YOUR NIGHT OUT
Here's a Blueprint for Discovering the Best of New York's Revitalized Chelsea
BY PETER ELLIOT
Dining out in Chelsea used to mean a
small number of barely passable
restaurants centered around 8th Avenue
and West 23rd Street. The extension of
the High Line along the Hudson River
from its origin at 14th Street to West 30th
Street has redefined and expanded the
area overnight. Now it's a matter of too
much choice. You can easily wind up in a
tourist trap as in an unwelcoming boite
reserved for artists or models.
London Terrace, the Art-Deco complex
between 9th and 10th Avenues, is the
residential heart of the Chelsea scene.
Along the High Line, "star-chitect"
buildings are opening, bringing new
restaurants and more people.
The rows of 19th century townhouses in
the West 20s used to be home to the
city's social and cultural elite before they
moved uptown. It's taken 100 years but
now these folks are back in Chelsea.
Go With Clients
DRINKS
Bathtub Gin: A Victorian speakeasy
tucked behind a coffee shop. Almost
everyone is impressed.
Colicchio & Sons: The restaurant (in
the same building that houses Del
Posto and Toro) is good, but the bar
is a great place to start the evening.
DINNER
Barchetta: David Pasternack of Esca
fame stays true to his fishing roots.
Large tables and great service.
Toro: This Boston import has taken
NYC by storm with its modern take on
Spanish tapas. Clients love it.
The woody/industrialCookshop:
room and solid American fare make
this a great choice for clients/family.
LATE NIGHT
Rusty Knot: Ken Friedman of The
Spotted Pig/The Breslin Bar fame's
home away from home.
Go With Friends
DRINKS
The Park: A favorite gathering spot.
Still a scene. Still fun. You can stay
for dinner too, but I wouldn't.
The Bubble Room: At the top of The
Standard Hotel. Strict security late
night is more welcoming at happy
hour. And a great way to get in later.
DINNER
Empire Diner: A New York institution
reopens with chef and "Chopped"
judge Amanda Freitag at the helm.
Bottino: Home to the fashion set, it
remains an excellent Italian spot.
Particularly good for lunch/brunch.
LATE NIGHT
Tia Pol: The most authentic Spanish
food in New York and open late most
nights. Super fun.
Tipsy Parson: Healthy Southern
food (and drink) is not an oxymoron.
Open late most nights.
Go With Family
DRINKS
High Line: A perfect place to bring
kids of all ages with multiple options
to stop and get drinks of all stripes.
Biergarten: At The Standard Hotel,
great people watching in summer or
winter (when the skating rink opens.)
DINNER
The Red Cat: Jimmy Bradley's
people-pleasing American fare.
Specializes in lunch/brunch after
gallery hopping with your parents.
Co.: Jim Lahey, the renowned owner
of Sullivan Street Bakery, makes the
best modern pizza in town. Stylish
room. No reservations.
Some love it, some hateDel Posto:
it, but for an extravagant, large, Italian
family meal, it's pretty hard to beat.
Morimoto: The Iron Chef is often
there and there are few places for
sushi of this quality for a whole family.
Source: Bloomberg/Noah Fecks
The large industrial space at Toro functions well for large groups and small too.

EDITOR'S CORNER
Bobby Flay's Gato: Some Celebrity Chefs Really Do Return to Their Kitchens
BY PETER ELLIOT
Bobby Flay may be one of America's
most famous celebrity chefs but he's
determined to reclaim his roots in the
kitchen with his new restaurant, Gato.
With his partner Larry Kretchmer,
they've taken a former homeless shelter
on Lafayette Street and transformed it
into an homage to Spain, complete with
Valencian floor tiles and orange leather
banquettes. Hostesses in slinky black
dresses and an uber-modern bar whose
under lighting makes it appear to levitate
complete the scene.
Mr. Flay hasn't lost sight of his culinary
roots and his skills have only matured.
And yes, every time I have been there,
I've seen him working in the kitchen and
not out in the room glad handing. It's nice
to see at least one celebrity chef getting
back to what he does best.
The simplest dish on the menu is the
standout, a heap of perfectly grilled spice
dusted carrots on a bed of Harissa yogurt
and a hint of fresh mint. I've already
copied it to make at home.
Having sworn I would never eat paella
outside of Spain, I tried his kale and
wild mushroom version and was
impressed. It was a joy to see the crew
scraping the socarrat off the bottom of the
—paella dish the crusty, crunchy caramel
like layer that is the hallmark of a great
Paella.
Another high point is the mostly
affordable, Spanish-focused wine list that
had some welcome surprises, including a
red Txakolina (sounds like chocolate).
These almost effervescent wines from the
Basque region are traditionally white and
often poured high up over the shoulder to
give them even more freshness. It's a
trick liable to get your guests wet — but
worth learning for the summer season.
There are plenty of kinks still to work
out, not the least of which is trying to get
in to see Mr. Flay live. (This is one reason
it's number one on on theDINE <GO>
Bloomberg Terminal in NYC this month.)
New restaurants tend to space
reservations at prime time, 7 p.m. to 9
p.m., to get the kitchen up to speed and
to leave seats for celebrities and critics,
but this creates the feeling of a letdown
when the rush is over. For now, I prefer
Gato late at night. Learn to eat late like
the Spaniards do and you won't have
trouble getting a table.
Peter Elliot is editor of Bloomberg Brief: Reserve
and manages the lifestyle functions on the
Bloomberg Professional service. He is
Bloomberg's founding food critic and a James
Beard Award winner. Opinions expressed are his
own. Follow him on Twitter/Instagram
@mrpeterelliot.
Cost: Entrees: $27-$34
? Great bar scene. Yes.Date Place
: Curved brick ceilingsNoise level
make it loud. Talk to your neighbor.
: Primetime is tough now.Access
Late at night.Will I Be Back?
The tables by theSpecial Feature:
bar are lounge-like, fun and you can
eat there, too.
Believe the hype. BobbyFinal Word:
Flay can cook. He's not just a pretty
face preening for the cameras.

RESTAURANT REVIEW
Heston Blumenthal Serves Up Smoking Cocktails at Heathrow Cafe
BY RICHARD VINES
The fried eggs are served with a splash
of browned butter with sherry vinegar.
The beurre blanc on the tomatoes is
enriched by smoked thyme, rosemary and
garlic.
Order the fish and chips and your waiter
will spray an essence of fish & chip shop
— pickled onion and vinegar — in the air
above the plate. Speaking of essences,
perhaps you’d also like a cocktail?
Rob Roy With a Cavendish Tobacco
Cloud features 12-year-old Tomatin and
Bowmore single malt whiskies in a large
glass filed with dry ice that billows with
cigar-scented smoke.
Chef Heston Blumenthal’s latest
establishment, the Perfectionists’ Cafe,
which opened airside at Heathrow’s new
Terminal 2 in early June, is not your
average airport restaurant.
I went along for a preview and I am
happy to say that the place looks great,
the food is imaginative and the prices are
reasonable. It beats the airline lounge
by a mile.
The full English breakfast is 9.50
pounds ($15.90), which compares with
9.75 pounds at Jamie’s Italian at Gatwick.
A bacon sandwich is 4.50 pounds; pizzas
are priced between 9 pounds and 11
pounds; burger and fries costs 13 pounds
and nitro ice-cream is 4.50 pounds for two
scoops, with three toppings.
The Rob Roy cocktail is 11.50 pounds
and Champagne starts at 62 pounds a
bottle (10.50 pounds a glass) for
Delamotte Brut.
“Heston wanted to create a restaurant
where you could come in for whatever
you feel like, but there’s real detail that’s
gone into everything,” Ashley
Palmer-Watts, the Fat Duck group’s
executive head chef, said in an interview
in the cafe.
“This is going to be a big restaurant:
1,200-1,300 covers a day,” added
Palmer-Watts, who is usually to be found
running Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a
restaurant where it’s easy to spend more
than 60 pounds on food alone. “We’ve
never done this kind of restaurant before,
but Heston really wanted to do it.”
The menu is based on “In Search of
Perfection,” a BBC television show in
which the chef — best known for his
restaurant the Fat Duck — traveled the
world to discover how to create
consummate dishes. For pizza, he visited
La Notizia in Naples. Palmer-Watts went
back there to develop options for the
Perfectionists’ Cafe with his head chef
Julian O’Neill
(O’Neill was head chef at the Bank
restaurant in London before moving to
Quaglino’s and then to the Wolseley,
where he was executive chef.)
Understandably, the Heathrow airport
authorities had safety concerns about the
pizza oven and liquid nitrogen required for
the ice creams. (The nitrogen freezes so
quickly that the ice crystals it forms are
Attention to Detail
Edible Spoon
minuscule, making for smooth ice
cream. The dish is served with an edible
chocolate spoon.)
“There were no huge disagreements”
between regulators and restaurateurs,
Palmer-Watts said. “A wood-fired pizza
oven? A nitro ice-cream parlor? It isn’t
what you’re going to find in most airports.”
The 2.5 billion-pound Terminal 2 will be
used by 23 Star Alliance airlines. Other
food outlets include Yo! Sushi; Leon
natural fast food; and Gorgeous Kitchen,
an establishment fronted by four women
chefs.
The Perfectionists’ Cafe reminds me of
a makeover Blumenthal did for the Little
Chef chain in 2009. In both cases, the
dishes are thoughtful and successful. Just
don’t go thinking you’re in for a gourmet
experience. The economics of such a
high-volume restaurant mean that some
items, such as chips, are bought from
outside suppliers rather than made on the
premises.
At the preview, half a dozen journalists
were served a lunch of charcuterie,
smoked salmon, three pizzas, hamburger
and fries, fish and chips, and
liquid-nitrogen ice cream. Yes, all of that.
Airport rules meant the visitors were not
allowed to consume alcohol — rare for a
journalists’ meal.
The closest we got to booze was a
demonstration of the Rob Roy cocktail,
with a quick sniff. I admit it: I inhaled.
Richard Vines is the chief food critic for
Bloomberg. Opinions expressed are his own.
Follow him on Twitter @richardvines.
Source: Bloomberg/Richard Vines
Chef Ashley Palmer-Watts takes a break
before the restaurant opening.
The nitrogen ice creams at Perfectionists'
Cafe are smooth and rich.
The wood-fired oven is a rarity at an airport.

DESTINATIONS
Hotels at Tip of Long Island Become the New Normal, Boosting Dining Options
It used to be everyone who went to the
Hamptons rented a house or stayed with
friends. One didn't want to admit
otherwise. This season there are more
hotels and they're socially acceptable.
With them come better dining options.
Hotels make running restaurants a lot
easier and that means better service.
Tom Colicchio, the celebrity chef and
East End resident, has opened a posh
spot at Topping Rose House in
Bridgehampton. At the just-opened Capri
Hotel in Southampton there's a new
branch of BLT Steak. The Palm, Bobby
Van's and the new Delmonico's are your
other go-tos if you're in the mood for
steak and salad. On Shelter Island it's
Sunset Beach, an outpost of the ever-chic
Andre Balazs group.
Perhaps the most exciting new hotel is
Gurney’s Montauk Resort. Jennifer Oz
LeRoy, 35, daughter of the late Warner,
the empresario behind The Tavern on the
Green and Maxwell's Plum, is in charge of
resurrecting the 10-acre resort and its
restaurant Seawater Grill.
A bit farther afield, The North Fork
Table & Inn tops my list of places to
dine in the area. Its locally-sourced
ingredients are prepared by the husband
and wife team of Gerry Hayden,
ex-Aureole, and Claudia Fleming, still the
most talented pastry chef in America.
Long Island isn't always my destination
of choice; still, the region's local
produce, from tomatoes and corn to fresh
chickens at Iacono Farm in East
Hampton, is a cook's dream. Maybe now
there are chefs and other professionals
out there who know what to do with them.

Top Restaurants:
Sant Ambroeus: Tanned, expensive, elegant and ridiculous.
Also reliable and delicious. It's got the best gelato too.
Stone Creek Inn: In East Quogue, it's a Bloomberg client
favorite for its serious French cuisine and professional service.
Frisky Oyster: The home of the North Fork artisanal and
model set. It's like being in Williamsburg with a tan.
Vine Street Cafe: An oasis of seasonal food on Shelter Island.
Top Bars:
Harlow East: In the old B. Smith space facing Sag Harbor,
expect the summers' most serious scene to happen here.
Bay Kitchen Bar: Already famous for turning local berries into
killer juleps. Great view of the bay. Serious food and wine, too.
Sienna: Celebrity chef Donatella Arpaia in her first venture out
east. Part club, part bar, part restaurant.
The Surf Lodge: Concerts (check their schedule,) Australian
focused food serving 24/7 and a view. Best scene in Montauk.
— There really is only one road to get out there and very few when you arrive. My advice: never travel at peak times.Driving
Another trick? Come the other way. Arrive by ferry to Orient Point or Port Jefferson. Cross Sound Ferry. Once there, plan all your
car travel around staying off the main artery, Route 27. Go shopping in the morning. Jettison friends who think you're being anal
retentive. Get an old copy of "Jodi's Shortcuts" and learn the back routes like the pros.
— Not just for masters of the universe anymore. You can even Uber one for $1,000 and more. Uber or Blade.Helicopter/Plane
The Standard Hotel group has StndAIR. Seaplanes leave from 23rd St. to East Hampton in 45 mins. www.stndair.com
—The Jitney has multiple pick up points across NYC. The favored choice of many weekenders who keep their cars at theBus
other end or have friends pick them up. Luxury options include Hampton Luxury Liner and Ambassador Class.
— LIRR's new express services takes 95 minutes and accepts reservations (which book up quickly.)Train
INSIDER TIPS
Next month: Litchfield County, Connecticut. MSG me at peterelliot@bloomberg.net
Source: Bloomberg/Andrew Harrer
Traffic jams and summer prices can't diminish the natural charm of the Hamptons.

Q&A
Resy: Scalping for Hot Restaurant Tables Has Arrived
What if you could just buy that impossible to get
reservation? Pay for play is the essence behind a
new online mobile venture called Resy created by
Eater co-founder Ben Leventhal and social media
and wine entrepreneur Gary Vaynerchuk.
Bloomberg Brief's Peter Elliot sat down for a chat
with them.
Q: How does it work?
Ben: It's a mobile app for people who
don't want to waste time trying to get into
a restaurant at prime time when they
could just pay for it.
Gary: The restaurant is in full control of
both their inventory and the restaurant
sets their pricing. When a customer
places the order, the restaurant decides
what that table will cost.
Q: So who gets what in the deal? And
how much does it cost?
: There's going to be a huge learningGary
curve for the customer, the restaurants,
and for us.
It should be 10 to 20 percent of theBen:
total bill. The restaurant will take the buik
of the fee and we'll take the rest.
Q: Who are your launch partners?
Ben: The McNally Group — Lure Fishbar,
Charlie Bird, Rosemary's. We're adding
quickly now that it has launched.
Q: Is this too disruptive an idea for an
industry that won't reveal inventory?
Gary: That's where the market is poised
to change. Restaurants are a low margin
industry. This is a way that they can
increase their income and a way for us to
make reserving an open market.
Transparent. It's not so different from
airlines, who worked out how to increase
income by charging for seats.
Q: Don't the restaurants find the whole
concept abhorrent?
Ben: It's not that it's abhorrent. It's that
they don't like change. It's a tough
industry. I was talking to a guy at Per Se
the other day. Here you have people
working 16 hour days just trying to get it
right. It's not like even the smartest high
profile restaurants have an R&D team
working with them, right?
The reason they are scared isGary:
that they’re worried they’ll seem
"douchy" in an industry that's still
fundamentally based on relationships and
romance. What's more upsetting is the
lack of transparency and the fact that you
could spend hours or weeks trying to get
a 7:30 table where the odds are always
stacked against you. Your clients
wouldn't stand for it, why should anyone?
Q: So your value proposition is
fairness? Let the market decide?
Absolutely. Resy will create anGary:
actual fair playing field. We're charging for
a premium time, for a premium table and
you don't feel like a jerk for doing it. It's
anti-elitist since we're creating
transparency where there's none.
Instead of holding tables, you'reBen:
putting the right customer in the right seat
at the right time. It's a more elegant way
for customers to get what they want and
for restaurants to make extra income.
Q: How would you define what you
each bring to Resy?
Gary: Ben is one of the 5 to 10 people
who understands the industry. He's not
flying out of left field. In a business that
depends on trust, he has that trust. And
we need that to get the best restaurants
on board or we don't have liquidity.
We've known each other a long timeBen:
and were just waiting for the right idea.
Resy is that idea. And getting trust is the
first step. That's the hard part. Long term
we see platforms that aggregate supply
and demand and that’s where Gary and
his expertise comes in. He's a master at
generating eyeballs and interest. It's a
marketplace. When we get that, that's
when things will start to fly.
Q: Strengths and opportunities we've
covered. What about threats and
weaknesses?
That we're too early. There areGary:
plenty of stories of people who built the
idea but the market wasn't ready.
Yes. The name of the game isBen:
marketplace liquidity. Matching supply
and demand. We have to get that. Uber
floating for $10 billion has me feeling a bit
better about the market's readiness.
Q: Uber is getting into reservations.
Priceline is bidding on Open Table.
Aren't those threats?
Ben: The hotel and airline industries are
light years ahead of restaurants in terms
of the inventory management technology.
So, if the technology standard gets better,
that's a win for everyone.
Q: And other competitors?
There's no question a lot of smartBen:
people are thinking about restaurant
reservations. Scalping is nasty business. I
like that several different models are in
play. We like ours. It will be interesting to
see how the space matures. I eat out six
nights a week, so we're focused on
building a product that makes people
wonder how they ever lived without it.
Q: Gary, your career started in
another opaque world. Wine. Any
comparisons or differences?
Gary: The wine industry isn't just opaque,
it's regulated. We are still dealing with the
affects of Prohibition. Putting regulations
in the hands of states makes it more than
opaque, it makes it impossible. The
difference is restaurants are ultimately
about romance. This is a one domino
game. When people realize they don't
have to jump through hoops, or behave or
feel like jerks to get a table; when they
find out they never really had a chance?
The domino falls.
Q: Will this change what we write
about restaurants?
Ben: I think the story will be how did we
ever live without this. Let’s be honest. All
we're doing is creating a convenient and
efficient way of distributing a commodity.
It'll be as easy as picking up a phone.
Source: Resy/Sarah Wolff
CTO Michael Montero, Founders, Gary
Vaynerchuk and Ben Leventhal (CEO)

Sponsored by:
August 2014

Bloomberg Global Top Five
London
1. — Balazs' babyChiltern Firehouse
2. Beast — Steak and crab
3. Gymkhana — Winning Indian
4. Kurobuta — Japanese crossover
5. Berners Tavern — Atherton British
New York
1. — Bobby Flay's trip to SpainGato
2. — Godfather-style ItalianCarbone
3. — Cozy downtown ItalianL'Artusi
4. — Corporate ItalianQuality Italian
5. — Sexy, clubby AmericanBeautique
Hong Kong
1. — Rocking burgersCaliburger
2. — Chinese meets NYCMott 32
3. — Atherton abroad Aberdeen
4. — Dim sum valueDing Dim 1968
5. — Like the name saysFish & Meat
San Francisco
1. — Farm blissState Bird Provisions
2. — California classicGary Danko
3. — California contemporaryBoulevard
4. — Casual new-Italian chicSPQR
5. — Financial district JapaneseOzumo
Peter Elliot defines what farm-to-table
really means and reveals his favorite
tonic water. Click photo to launch or
go to: http://bit.ly/ReserveRadio
Bloomberg Terminal. The formula includes hits,
reviews and ratings. Updated July 31, 2014.

'Tis the Season: A Farm-to-Table Restaurant Primer
BY PETER ELLIOT
No matter what the label says, most restaurants buy from food service companies
such as Compass and Sysco. They're a necessary evil to stabilize food costs in a
low-margin industry. Only high-end shops claim to buy or grow food from non-industrial
farms.
Still not all "farm-to-table" restaurants are alike. I break them up this way: 1. places
that import food from farms they own or control and are rigid about menus around those
foods; 2. places that grow food on the property to augment other foods they bring in; and
3. chefs who are expert consumers at local greenmarkets or source the best they can
get when they can get it. Most chefs hate to reveal that a mixture of all three is more
usual and perhaps best. Here are some of the restaurants that define the movement.
London
1. A game changer. ChefGrain Store:
Bruno Loubet puts vegetables at the
center of each dish and gets the balance
of posh to casual just right.
2. Chef Simon Rogan extractsFera:
maximum flavor from the best ingredients,
many of which come from his own farm
300 miles north of Claridge's.
3. The mother of BritishRiver Cafe:
seasonal restaurants. Perched beside the
Thames, it serves bold, rustic Italian in
casually modern surroundings. Its most
famous protege? Jamie Oliver.
New York
1. Named after a cow whoNarcissa:
lives on Andre Balazs' 76-acre farm north
of New York, chef John Fraser cooks the
rest of the produce in rooms that typify
the movement: a formal room, an outdoor
space and an open-kitchen bistro.
2. Jean-GeorgesABC Kitchen:
Vongerichten sets the standard for how
fresh produce is bought and sold.
3. April Bloomfield'sThe Spotted Pig:
(and friends) ground-breaking gastropub
in the West Village is still the best place to
try her gutsy take on farm-to-table.
Source: Francesco Tonelli for ABC Kitchen
Baby beets with yogurt, balsamic vinegar and herbs by Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

August 2014 Bloomberg Brief Reserve 2
IF/THEN
If You Like Blue Hill, Then You'll Love....
Blue Hill in NYC and its sister, Blue Hill at Stone Barns on the Rockefeller estate 30
miles north, are still America's most authentic if high-brow realizations of farm-to-table.
Not everyone likes to meet the pig that winds up on their table; still, few can compete
with the skill and vision of chef Dan Barber, author of new book, The Third Plate.
IF: BLUE HILL
75 Washington Place, New York, NY
630 Bedford Rd, Pocantico Hills, NY
Setting: Serene, worshipful.
Food: Pure farm-to-table.
Bar Scene: In NYC, it's the best spot.
Date Factor: Perfect.
Groups: It's what Stone Barns does
best. NYC location less so but possible.
Secrets: Ask for a farm tour.
London
Clarke's: As much a founder of the
scene as River Cafe, 30 years later it's
still one of my favorites.
St. John: Farm-to-table meets
nose-to-tail eating. More focused on meat
and offal but still 100 percent authentic.
Brawn: This gem on Columbia Road is
closer to the Brooklyn model. They serve
what they have and it's always great.
Greater San Francisco
Chez Panisse: Alice Waters is to the
farm-to-table movement what Julia Child
was to cooking. See where it all started
and be amazed. It's still perfect.
The French Laundry: Chef Thomas
Keller is celebrating his 20th year here.
Take the trip to Yountville. His style of
cooking remains the one I admire most.
Westchester County, N.Y.
Purdy's Farmer & the Fish: Kale and
succotash grow on the hillside behind this
18th century farmhouse. Peanuts get
thrown on the floor. It's not as polished as
Blue Hill but it's twice the fun.
OPENINGS
L'Anima Cafe: More casual sister to
L'Anima next door. Pizzas plus wines
that come straight from the barrel.
Hawksmoor Knightsbridge: New
location for popular chain with some
more Asian-influenced dishes.
Dirty French: The Carbone team
breaks away from Italy at the Ludlow
Hotel. Expect scene to follow.
Blenheim: This 45-seat farm-to-table
from the Smorgas Chef team sources
from a farm in the Catskills.
Crimson & Rye: Charlie Palmer of
Aureole and Steak fame's new
midtown post-work extravaganza.
Jamie's Italian: Jamie Oliver spreads
his ode to River Cafe to China adding
another shop to his "living brand."
Seasons by Olivier Elzer: New
venture from former head chef of
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon.
Potato Head Folk: Popular beach
club in Bali spreads. Rooftop bar.
London
New York
Hong Kong
Singapore


Ted Merz
Bloomberg Brief
Executive Editor
tmerz@bloomberg.net
+1-212-617-2300
Peter Elliot
Bloomberg Brief
Reserve Editor
+1-212-617-2332
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Red Dot
First Word
+1-212-617-1488
Dragan Tubonjic
Lifestyles
Data - U.S.
+1-212-617-7745
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Lifestyles
Data - U.K.
+44-20-7073-3126
Jennifer Rossa
Bloomberg Brief
Managing Editor
+1-212-617-8074
Anne Riley
Bloomberg Brief
Editor
+1-212-617-0061
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Bloomberg Brief
Business Manager
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Advertising
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Bloomberg Brief
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Source: Bloomberg/Jen Munkvold
Blue Hill at Stone Barns' main dining room.

YOUR NIGHT OUT
Lower Manhattan Has Something for Everyone as World Trade Center Reborn
BY PETER ELLIOT
The transformation of Lower Manhattan
since 2001 is one of the great studies of
the power of neighborhoods to reinvent
themselves. The World Trade Center
complex is coming back to life and
businesses like Conde Nast and Harper
Collins are already moving in.
On the ground, the restoration of the
Greenwich Street artery through the heart
of the WTC makes crossing the divide of
the West Side Highway seem less
threatening and even beautiful. It also
opens up the marina and riverside
promenades that have made it a
destination. Now your dining options
expand exponentially. There are 12 new
restaurants in the new food hall at Battery
Park City. While it is still far from
complete, you can already feel that Wall
Street is not just a land of tall buildings
but a place to walk, live and eat.
Go With Clients
DRINKS
Brandy Library: Comfortable and
clubby. Make reservations for a table.

Macao Trading Co.: Bloombergers
who rate this place are mixed on the
food but love the drinks.
DINNER
American Cut: Glamorous, deluxe
steakhouse with a BLT heart.
North End Grill: A Danny Meyer
production with new chef. Stay tuned.

Batard: Drew Nieporent reopens the
Montrachet space with an ode to
"Continental" fare. Excellent.
LATE NIGHT
Church Lounge: The best place to
seal a deal. At the Tribeca Grand.
Under theThe Lounge at Atera:
restaurant. A good way to become a
regular upstairs.
Go With Friends
DRINKS
Los Americanos: Latin diner-bar.
Stay for the food, too. Fun. Casual.

Terroir Tribeca: Subterranean spot
to indulge in wines by the glass.
DINNER
Telepan Local: Farm-to-table from
Bill Telepan. Try all the specials.
Smorgas Chef: Swedish meatballs,
outdoor seating. Unusual and hip.
Next Door Nobu: In the Nobu chain
(32 at last count), number 2 is the
best, most friendly and authentic.

LATE NIGHT
Canal Room: If you still have the
strength, it's a fun venue. Check for
performances/schedules.
Santos Party House: Ditto. If it's
happening below 14th Street, it's
probably happening here.
Go With Family
DRINKS
Stone Street Tavern: The rebirth of
Lower Manhattan started here. Have
a walk around the area.
Ulysses: A Bloomberg favorite for its
old New York charm and good food .
DINNER
Blue Smoke: Perfect for parents and
kids given its large booths. Close to
the river and parks if they get unruly.

El Vez: A Mexican transplant from
Philadelphia with great food.
Battery Gardens: This is like the
Tavern on the Green for Lower
Manhattan. Building and view are
spectacular; food is serviceable.
More: Dine early and walk around
Battery Park, the Marina, the Irish
Hunger Memorial and/or South Street
Seaport to get the most out of this
transforming neighborhood.
Source: Bloomberg/Peter Elliot
The Santiago Calatrava-designed passageway linking Battery Park City to the WTC site.

EDITOR'S CORNER
The Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean-Georges Is a Social and Culinary Epicenter
BY PETER ELLIOT
The Inn at Pound Ridge by
Jean-Georges exists between two
precarious spots: the destination
restaurant and a casual neighborhood
joint. It does so in one of the world’s
richest suburbs, the leafy lanes that
connect Westchester County, New York
to Fairfield County, Connecticut. It's a
land full of hedge-fund managers,
billionaires, CEOs, titans, and the people
who work for them. Ralph Lauren and
Martha Stewart live nearby.
If anyone could take on the task of
feeding the well heeled, it’s Jean-Georges
Vongerichten. Having earned every star
and point at his eponymous restaurant on
Central Park West, he then proved he
could extend his culinary management to
multiple restaurants and styles — ABC
Kitchen and ABC Cocina are two of the
best and most popular examples. He
doesn't need to own a farm to prove he
knows how to source ingredients.
Think of The Inn as ABC Kitchen North
with lots of expensive cars valet parked
nearby. Tucked behind the rebuilt
Victorian façade is a spectacular modern
barn of ashen-wood exposed beams,
comfortable chairs and an enormous focal
fireplace.
Jean-Georges’s ethos of polished
service and strictly executed cuisine is in
every detail. Pub food by Jean-Georges,
sort of. Only here can you get crackling
calamari piled next to a cup of foamed
yuzu sauce. You can eat them with your
fingers but why when they present
hardwood chopsticks? Who else would
make a delicious sweet pea guacamole?
Those are menu standouts. So are the
equally Jean-Georges'd pizzas, burgers
and fries. Match this to a well priced wine
list, earnest staff and decorously
mismatched china and you get the vibe.
Its other personality as a destination
spot succeeds as well. Everything from
lamp chops to salmon with a sweet corn
pudding bear the mark of Jean-Georges's
style and ooze great sourcing and
unblemished ingredients. The entrees
give the restaurant its stylized panache
and its raison d'etre.
As I drove away, I thought of
Reagan-era restaurants such as Le
Cirque, where your rank in the
socioeconomic zeitgeist of New York
defined your experience. That ritual of
privilege has officially moved north to
Pound Ridge. Whether you're a titan or
just an aspiring one, The Inn at Pound
Ridge by Jean-Georges has captured
how to satisfy both.
own. On Twitter/Instagram: @mrpeterelliot.
Cost: Entrees $26-$38
Yes. Try the bar first.Date Place?:
Blissfully buzzy.Noise Level:
: Weekends hard. M/T/W OK.Access
If I'm in the 'hood.Will I Be Back?:
Fireplace/bar.Special Feature:
ABC Kitchen North.Final Word:

WINE INSIGHT
London Sommeliers Offer Tips on Scary Business of Picking Wines

BY RICHARD VINES
Sommeliers can be the scariest people
in restaurants. They may hover. They
may know too much. You may not want to
pay so much.
So what’s the best way to order good
wine without emptying your pockets or
having your expense claims bounce
back? How should you choose if your
expertise is limited?
“It’s best to be direct and say how much
you want to spend,” says Emily O’Hare,
33, head sommelier at River Cafe in
London. “I always feel confident about
trusting sommeliers — but I’m the same
about hairdressers, which isn’t true for
everybody.”
O’Hare and fellow sommeliers in the
U.K. capital say they’re encouraging a
trend that helps diners find great value
and enjoy fine wine. It means going
off-piste, avoiding big-name regions such
as Bordeaux and Burgundy and heading
to other slopes of France — and other
parts of the world.
That can comfort people who fear being
pushed up in price or aren’t sure which
regions other than the obvious offer top
quality.
“Sommeliers, of all the personnel in
restaurants, are the most intense, the
hoverers,” says Tom Harrow, who
sources wines and hosts events for
clients via his company WineChap.
“They are the geeks,” Harrow says.
“There’s nothing cool about wine. If you
like it, you drink it. But there are people
who categorize it, like collecting stamps.”
Asking your wine steward for a steer
away from the most expensive wines is
fair play, Harrow and sommeliers say.
“For value, I would look in Alsace and in
the Loire Valley as well, and sometimes
even in the New World,” says Kathrine
Larsen, 31, a Dane who holds the title of
U.K. Sommelier of the Year.
Top Sommelier
“I’d look maybe at Australia, Victoria,
somewhere like Yarra Valley or
Mornington Peninsula, smaller producers
which are up and coming,” Larsen says.
California wines from the Sonoma Valley
are a possibility, “though that tends to be
a bit more expensive.”
Larsen, who was head sommelier at Le
Pont de la Tour, Orrery and Zuma before
joining Top Selection Ltd. as the wine
distributor’s business development
manager, also likes easy-drinking
Spanish whites from the Rueda region of
Castile and Leon. For reds, it’s Galicia —
an “unusual” choice from an area known
for whites — or perhaps a trip to the
Piedmont area of Italy.
For diners seeking good value, “there’s
some really fun Spanish stuff,” O’Hare
agrees. “Southern France, too:
Languedoc Roussillon can come up with
some really cool things.”
She recommends the “incredible white
wines” from the Alto Adige region of
northeast Italy. Some whites from
Campania in the southern part of the
country are “really interesting and offer
some really good value and complexity
and structure.”
Harrow also likes Italy, particularly
vintages from Puglia. And he’s high on
Austria, calling it “the new Portugal” for
reds. But he says you don’t have to
escape France for good value.
Harrow also favors “the new seam of
unoaked Australian chardonnays,” and
both he and River Cafe’s O’Hare
recommend German rieslings.
O’Hare used to organize women-only
tastings because men were taking the
lead in engaging the sommelier.
“There’s been a bit of a climate
change,” she says. “Women seemed to
be a bit timid in restaurants and that’s not
so true anymore. There’s definitely an
equality about payment, about ordering:
French Regions

He’s not ordering for her and she’s not
sitting back and being quiet. There’s
definitely a new kind of vibe.”
Larsen, who worked in Michelin-starred
restaurants Ensemble and The Paul in
Copenhagen, isn’t so sure.
“It’s funny thinking about it, but it’s really
rare that I’ve seen women ordering wine
in restaurants,” says Larsen. “Women
usually just don’t go there. In 13 years of
having worked in restaurants, I think the
men usually take care of that.”
Either way, the key is to be honest.
“You need to be quite candid with
sommeliers,” according to Harrow. “That’s
important because the moment you start
pretending you know more than you do,
it’s not just like wolves surrounding a
prey, but they won’t treat you with
respect.”
What if a sommelier does embarrass
you?
“It’s rubbish if anyone makes you feel
like an idiot,” O’Hare says. “That’s a bad
person, not a bad sommelier. You
wouldn’t be intimidated by a grocer. It’s
just wine.”
Follow him on Twitter @richardvines.
Wine Wolves
Emily O'Hare, head sommelier at River Cafe,
says it's best to be direct with sommeliers.

DESTINATIONS
Rural Getaway Litchfield County Starts to Attract Serious Restaurants and Talent
BY PETER ELLIOT
Bucolic, low-key Litchfield County is
often referred to as the “Non-Hamptons.”
It isn’t really. I’d hardly call locals like
Danny Meyer, Graydon Carter and soon
Anderson Cooper low-key. There are just
fewer people dotted over much more land
that's only 90 minutes from NYC.
Historically it's been known for private
schools, lake-side family compounds,
rehab centers and farms. The latter is
leading the revival of a food and
restaurant scene, most noticeably by
Arethusa Farm and its takeover of the
hamlet of Bantam. (See Q&A, page 9.)
Get your bearings in Litchfield with its
classic main street lined with shops and
restaurants (The Village is more casual;
West Street Grill, the grande dame.) Drive
up stately North Street to see some of the
best-preserved 18 houses inth century
America. South Street leads past
Arethusa and White Flower Farm to
Washington, the grandest section of the
county and home to the more-accessible-
than-one-might-expect Mayflower Inn
(and its very good bar/restaurant.)
Washington Depot has a
charming collection of owner-run shops
and one of the last great book stores, The
Hickory Stick Bookshop. Find
Waldingfield Farm and brothers Patrick
and Quincy Horan for the best tomatoes.
Towne Farm in Morris has peerless corn.
I'm a sucker for the pretzels at The Dutch
Epicure Shop. For peaches and other
stone fruits, go to Starberry Farm. Later in
the season, take the kids to Averill Farm
for apples and Bunnell Farm for
pumpkins.
Litchfield and neighboring areas have
been the weekend getaway of choice for
the "non-Hampton" set for nearly 300
years, and with produce like this, I don't
see that changing any time soon.
Top Fine Dining Restaurants:
Arethusa al tavolo: It's the best all-around dining experience.
Inside or outside. Classic American fare with great desserts.
CT: Beloved of the local cognoscenti for its NYC style quality,
food and wines. It has a new bar scene and smart BYOB policy.
Winvian: Litchfield's most beautiful and unusual hotel complex
now lets in day-trippers for destination style country dinners.
Rooster Tail Tavern: A less formal alternative to either the
Mayflower or Winvian, but equally beautiful inside and out.
Top Pubs and Bars:
Lantern Inn: An artist collective in Wassaic, N.Y. Local
produce goes into amazing pizzas, burgers and wings. Just
outside of Litchfield and worth the drive.
Bohemian Pizza: Locals and visitors around a roaring fire.
White Horse Tavern: Central, packed and appropriately
scenic. It's like Hillstone with a fireplace, dropped in the country.
AJ's: The last of the old time-pubs. Solid steak and burgers.
Patty's: Beloved diner-style breakfast. Packed on weekends.
— Litchfield's crown jewel is the 4,000-acre reserve left by the White family in 1913. It's all here:White Memorial Foundation
hiking trails, birds, boating, running, fishing. It's like Central Park without the formal paths. Manageable and beautiful.
— Don't be stupid. Those long, wide roads are begging you to test your new Audi or Ducati. They're also full of cops thatDriving
love New York license plates. Also, pull over if you're lost. Cell towers are few and far between. Get a signal while you can.
— Check schedules. All have world class performersLitchfield Jazz Festival/Yale School of Music/Pilobolus/Warner Theatre
appearing in August. The Music Shed at Yale is a particular favorite. It's like Tanglewood without the fuss.
Fishing — Both the Housatonic and the Farmington rivers are a fly-fisherman's paradise. West Cornwall is the spot.
Antiques — Everything from museum quality at Jeffrey Tillou in Litchfield to shops with hidden gems like R.T. Facts in Kent and
Barry Strom's Upstairs Antiques in shop-rich New Preston. Litchfield County Auctions has competitive quarterly auctions.
INSIDER TIPS
Next month: San Francisco. Tips? MSG me at peterelliot@bloomberg.net
Source: Bloomberg/Anne Riley
Kent Falls in Litchfield County, Connecticut is a perfect spot for nature lovers year round.


SUSHI
Nakazawa Reels in Clients With World-Class Sushi and Old Fashioned Luxury
BY PETER ELLIOT
Sushi Nakazawa in New York reigns
supreme in America as the ultimate
destination for the deluxe sushi
experience. It was in the top five most
popular restaurants on Bloomberg for
more than eight months and it remains
almost impossible to get a reservation. Its
size — 10 seats at the bar to watch Chef
Nakazawa and his team prepare for those
few privileged souls plus 28 more in the
back — will keep it “fully committed” for
years to come.
The question is, at $150 for 20 pieces,
($120 at tables in the back) is it worth it?
The answer depends on what you want
from a sushi bar/restaurant.
Nakazawa-san, as his colleagues call
him, trained under Jiro Ono of “Jiro
Dreams of Sushi” fame. All you have to
do is taste the uni with a hint of black
truffle salt on top, or the scallop, sweetly
stinging with fresh yuzu, to know he has
learned from his master. Nakazawa
doesn’t make the world's best sushi. What
he makes is the best and perhaps most
intelligent sushi experience.
From the soft black leather seats to the
polished glassware and tailored
English-speaking waitstaff, this is
Japanese meets The French Laundry.
There’s no fumbling with language or
worries about food you don’t
understand. It's all very simple. Best of
all, it is not as expensive as equally
luxurious Masa or bare bones
Kurumazushi.
And in that spread lies Nakazawa’s true
genius: If you want luxe comfort and great
sushi, there’s nothing quite like this
anywhere.
NYC Has the Most Expensive Sushi in the U.S.: The Bloomberg Sushinomics Index
BY SELINA WANG, BLOOMBERG NEWS
Sushi restaurants in New York are on a
roll, ranking the most expensive locale in
the U.S. to buy the Japanese cuisine for
the third straight year.
The price of basic sushi at New York
restaurants was about 26 percent higher
than the national average this year,
leading the Sushinomics Cost-of-Living
Index. The index, compiled by Bloomberg
Rankings, is based on prices for the two
most standard items — spicy tuna and
California rolls — at restaurants in 28
major cities.
Basic sushi prices in New York were 6.5
percent higher than in second-place Los
Angeles. Seattle climbed to third place
from sixth, increasing its prices by 2.3
percent from last year. San Francisco and
Dallas rounded out the top five.
New Orleans ranked as the cheapest
U.S. sushi city for the third straight year,
with prices 24 percent below the national
average, the rankings show.
Most Expensive Basic Rolls
RANK CITY 2014 INDEX RANK 2013
1 New York, NY 136.66 1
2 Los Angeles, CA 128.34 2
3 Seattle, WA 117.72 6
4 San Francisco, CA 117.23 3
5 Dallas, TX 116.91 4
6 Austin, TX 115.28 5
7 Sacramento, CA 114.62 7
8 Miami, FL 112.34 8
9 Orlando, FL 112.17 13
10 Boston, MA 111.52 9
Source: Bloomberg, Zagat, Yelp
When it comes to premium sushi rolls,
however, Greenwich, Connecticut tops
the list. Sushi lovers in Greenwich pay an
average of $17.65 for premium rolls,
$1.72 more than the average price of
New
York’s premium sushi. New York placed
seventh on the premium-priced
Sushinomics index.
See the full 2014 Sushinomics rankings
.online
Source: Daniel Krieger for Sushi Nakazawa
Sea urchin sourced from Hokkaido, Japan at Sushi Nakazawa in New York City.

Q&A
The Manolo Blahnik Cows Don't Wear Stilettos, Though They Do Churn Cash
George Malkemus and came toTony Yurgaitis
Litchfield, Connecticut to escape the world of
high-end fashion. As the owners of Manolo
Blahnik USA, they needed it. In part to stop
development near their home, they bought in 1999
the 325-acre Arethusa Farm, which they soon
populated with cows that cost more than
Porsches. Next, they colonized the hamlet of
Bantam, building a dairy, a shop to sell their
products and last year, restaurant Arethusa al
tavolo. Now Arethusa products are sold
worldwide, including in markets like New York's
Eataly. Peter Elliot sat down to find out how a
weekend home became a second business.
Q: How can a cow cost so much?
George: Let’s get one thing straight:
These are award-winning, top-of-the-line
cows. Everyone makes a fuss about
spending $170,000 on a cow. These
cows not only make great milk, they
amortize! One 6-figure cow can have
calves that sell for $15K to $20K each.
That pays for the cow.
Q: Much is also made of your milk
costing nearly $5 per 1/2 gallon.
Tony: There's a direct link between the
quality of our cows and the quality of all
that they produce. You won't see a fly on
our cows and they eat only the best. It
matters. Just like it matters in shoes.
Q: You can get organic milk cheaper?
Cheaper. Not better. I say letGeorge:
your taste buds decide. Frankly, the world
of dairy is just as competitive as the world
of fashion. There's a lot of noise. Make
great products the way you want to make
them and let the market decide.
Q: So you just decided “Let’s save the
land and become gentleman farmers?”
George: I hate that term. I really do.
We’re businessmen and I don’t let
emotion drive me in the shoe business or
the cow business or the milk business. By
2008 shipping our milk to a bottler for
pennies made no sense. So, we started
bottling our own milk. We placed it in local
stores first and the rest followed.
Tony: Well, we did think, “We don’t want
to live across from a golf course” but we
also thought, “There's a chance to restore
this farm and this has to be a money
making venture.” It's just how we are.
:Q So your driver is business?
Mostly. I can't just sit around. ItGeorge:
was just so obvious. Here’s this land,
here are these cows, here’s this beautiful
hamlet that’s trying to revive – it took time
but the vision all came together. But I
don’t know how to think of it without
thinking how to make it pay for itself.
Q: And is it? With the farm, the cows,
the restaurant, these are all high
capital, slow return businesses.
George: We are getting there. We’re at a
point to break even on the dairy. Look, I
don’t use powerpoint. I don’t build
projections. I never have, never will. Yes,
it all seems like a plan now, but great
business is about not over-analyzing your
dreams. Worse is having a dream and
doing nothing about it. Worrying about the
day it officially pays for itself is just dull
and misses the point.
Q: You're now the largest private
employer in Litchfield and the second
largest taxpayer. Is it more than you
expected from this venture?
Tony: Now it's our lives. George likes to
say he’s all tough about the numbers but
it’s not what drives us. We’re not
absentee owners. We’re at the farm, at
the shows. We’re in the retail shop.
Yes, probably more than ourGeorge:
team would like us to be. I guess that is
the difference — I love fashion but here
we're talking about a community. We’ve
hired more than 90 people locally, we
have a payroll in the mid-7 figures. The
payback comes everyday — farm, cows,
food, ice cream, cheese. You can’t
calculate that.
Q: I understand the farm, the cows, the
retail expansion. But restaurants?
: I confess. We never intended toGeorge
have a restaurant and it's the most
frightening of all the ventures. Still, it
seemed a logical extension. Last year,
our GM quit on day 2 and we had to bring
up Marwan Idris from the shoe store in
New York to manage a restaurant. But it
had to work because it had to work.
It was scary but the town, this partTony:
of Connecticut, needed this food. The ice
cream store is one way to connect but
being at a table with wine and food
completes the whole. Hence "al tavolo,"
To The Table. It has become a delight for
the community and a delight for us.
Q: What advice would you give others
embarking on similar ventures?
George: Day to day involvement is key.
Keep up with what’s going on, what’s
new, be it fashion, be it dairy. Don’t be
driven by the downside. Don't under
capitalize. Listen to your employees, but,
and this is my favorite one, don't
over-think.
I tell everyone here — we don’tTony:
have secretaries, we don't have an HR
department. Talk to me. No idea is a bad
idea. Bring it to me. That might be the
biggest difference between shoes and
where we are now. Now I really want to
listen and we do.
Q: I know you don’t believe in
powerpoint. How about a crystal ball?
George: The crystal ball is fuzzy right
now. I’d like mostly to get the recipe for
this hay-flavored ice cream right. And
have the chairs in the restaurant fixed.

George Malkemus and Tony Yurgaitis

Sponsored by:
September 2014

BLOOMBERG GLOBAL TOP FIVE*
London
1. — Social meccaChiltern Firehouse
2. Beast — See your food hanging
3. Kurobuta — Japanese pub
4. City Social — British food and view
5. Gymkhana — Stylish Indian
New York
1. — Spanish cuisine hot-spotGato
2. — West Village ItalianL'Artusi
3. — Super sized veal parmCarbone
4. — Clubby continentalBeautique
5. — Relaxed MontmartreCherche Midi
Hong Kong
1. — Japanese BBQ298 Nikuya Room
2. — U.K. Italian arrivesJamie's Italian
3. — British foodAberdeen Street Social
4. — Still packing them inCaliBurger
5. — New York ChineseMott 32
San Francisco
1. — Just goState Bird Provisions
2. — Financial area FrenchBoulevard
3. — Grand and worth it Gary Danko
4. — Classy modern ItalianSPQR
5. — Convenient city sushiOzumo
What is the right size for a martini
glass? Is it still safe to order
Champagne at lunch? The new
normal in corporate dining discussed.
Click the photo to launch or go to:
http://bit.ly/SeptReservePodcast
reviews and ratings. Updated Aug. 22, 2014.

New Normal in Corporate Dining: Flexible, Delicious
BY PETER ELLIOT
The days of the three-martini business lunch (or dinner) are over. Once a mainstay of
corporate culture, expensed meals with clients and colleagues have fallen out of fashion
as more executives dine at their desks and any employee destination is selected with the
utmost caution.
For those rare occasions when a corporate card is still sanctioned, the chosen
restaurant must tick a lot of boxes. It must be informed, not excessive; efficient, not
rushed; and competent yet not so costly that whoever approves your expenses raises an
eyebrow. The capacity for large tables or private rooms is also a must.
You want your colleagues, employees and clients to see you in just the right light.
Restaurants worldwide have evolved to meet these very specific needs. Here are some
of the new best in class:
London
1. Chef Jason Atherton hasCity Social:
redefined competent cooking in London.
This modern British spot has some of the
best views of the capital and the staff
knows how to get clients in and out fast.
2. This newHolborn Dining Room:
brasserie halfway between the City and
the West End does breakfast through
dinner. Des McDonald is the master of
corporate. Scarfes Bar for music/drinks.
3. The casual twin to theL'Anima Cafe:
more grown up L'Anima next door has it
all: bar seats at lunch, tables for
meetings, big spaces for groups — and
the best private dining room options for
both. The food remains exemplary.
New York
1. The new go-toRotisserie Georgette:
for hedge-funders, Upper East Siders and
anyone who likes a great chicken.
Convenient, simple, elegant and the
chicest private dining room in Midtown.
2. Gabe Thompson and JoeL'Apicio:
Campanale's solid modern Italian with a
center-cube private room and outdoor
space is perfect for meeting halfway
between uptown and Brooklyn.
3. With a heritageQuality Italian/Meat:
that comes from Smith & Wollensky, no
wonder this group knows how to hit every
note just right for the busy working
professional. What's next? Quality
Chinese? Quality Mexican?
Source: Melissa Horn for Rotisserie Georgette
The Poulet Roti at Rotisserie Georgette is guaranteed to impress clients and colleagues alike.

September 2014 Bloomberg Brief Reserve 2
IF/THEN

If You Like The Nomad, Then You'll Love...
The team that owns Manhattan's Eleven Madison Park — Will Guidara and Daniel
Humm — opened The Nomad two years ago. Eleven Madison Park is haute cuisine;
Nomad is more grown-up fun. Part high-end restaurant, part bar, with a large central
atrium for rocking drinks and brunch, its model of having many different dining spaces
under one roof has spread to Brooklyn and some might argue, the world.
IF: THE NOMAD/NOMAD BAR IN
MANHATTAN
1170 Broadway, New York, N.Y. 10001
Setting: Urban hedge fund chic
Food: Highly competent
Bar Scene: So fun, they now have two
Noise Level: Quiet in dining room
Date Factor: Perfect in every way
Groups: Multiple options
Secrets: When I die, I want a party on
the Nomad Roof
THEN: THESE EQUIVALENTS IN
BROOKLYN
Dover: The Battersby team have
created a Per Se alternative in Carroll
Gardens and they compare course for
course. Dine outside while you can.
Brooklyn Fare: Cesar Ramirez's Chef's
Table is worth the trip to downtown
Brooklyn. Deadly serious and wildly
delicious.
A rambling, formerlyRoberta's/Blanca:
forlorn space in Bushwick that's the
epicenter of the New York hipster scene.
Good beer and pizza. There's also
super-secret Blanca through a garden
door for haute cuisine.
Cherry Izakaya: One could argue
Jonathan Morr of Republic and Bond St.
invented urban cool. This Williamsburg
hotspot is his newest.
1 or 8: A small entrance in gives way to
a giant single plank table for groups. Bar
or tables have the best sushi in town.
Glady’s: The best Caribbean food in
NYC. Lacquered turquoise room, a
wood-fired oven and rum. Have the
pimento grilled cheese.
The Elm: Bad boy chef Paul Liebrandt's
newest gastronomic madness. Wee bites
or a big dinner. Multiple options for
groups, tables and bars. (And a pool!)
BOBO Social: Gourmet burgers.
Bobo stands for "Bourgeois
Bohemian."
The Butcher's Hook: Gastropub in
Ravenscourt Park from John Stanyer,
ex-Daphne's and Launceston Place.
Dirty French: The Torrisi/Carbone
boys break away from Italian and
move to French at the Ludlow Hotel.

Tuome: 45-seat American/Asian from
owner/chef Thomas Chen, a former
CPA who left the corporate world to
cook at Eleven Madison Park.
Brooklyn Fare Manhattan: Will this
be Brooklyn's most famous export?
They say they're opening for real.
Cosme: Enrique Olvera is Mexico's
best chef. This will be a more casual
version of Pujol in Mexico City.
Chinese restaurant andLiLi L'Oiseau
with a 360-degree view are theBlanc
restaurants at The Peninsula Paris,
fresh off its four-year, $1 billion refit.
Carbone: Old-world NYC Italian
opens on the 9th floor of LKF Tower.
OPENINGS
London
New York
Paris
Hong Kong


Ted Merz
Bloomberg Brief
Executive Editor
tmerz@bloomberg.net
+1-212-617-2300
Peter Elliot
Bloomberg Brief
Reserve Editor
+1-212-617-2332
Arie Shapira
+1-212-617-1488
Dragan Tubonjic
+1-212-617-7745
Fintan Brennan
+44-20-7073-3126
Jennifer Rossa
Bloomberg Brief
Managing Editor
+1-212-617-8074
Anne Riley
Bloomberg Brief
Editor
+1-212-617-0061
Nick Ferris
Bloomberg Brief
Business Manager
+1-212-617-6975
Adrienne Bills
Bloomberg Brief
Advertising
+1-212-617-6073
Lori Husted
Bloomberg Brief
+1-717-505-9701
Source: Frances F. Denny for Nomad
Nomad's new bar next door at West 28th St.

YOUR NIGHT OUT
London's Soho Evolves From Den of Iniquity to Restaurant and Club Paradise

BY PETER ELLIOT
London’s Soho has long been a
meeting point for people living in or
visiting the capital. Like New York's Times
Square, it's geographically convenient —
and chock full of truly forgettable bars,
restaurants and clubs. Rapid
gentrification has only made it more
dense — and more difficult to pick a
memorable spot.
Luckily, there are some gems among
the area's chain-owned pubs and hold-out
sex shops. Within the last five years, a
number of new and refurbished hotels,
watering holes and restaurants have
arrived on the scene, and some of their
offerings are among the best in the city.
(Something that can't be said of Times
Square.) The area has also become a lot
safer. The only thing that's gotten worse
is the traffic. Between the crowds and the
roadworks, best to get to where you’re
going in Soho on foot or public transport.
Go With Clients
DRINKS
Milk & Honey: Mixology heaven.
Non-members can call for tables.
Dean Street Townhouse: Clubby,
comfy, fun. You can get dinner, too.
DINNER
Quo Vadis: A personal favorite. Karl
Marx lived upstairs. Service and
farm-driven food remain flawless.
Social Eating House: Jason
Atherton's noisy N.Y.-style hit remains
the most fashionable spot in Soho.

Bob Bob Ricard: Luxurious booths
where you can summon champagne
at the touch of a button.
LATE NIGHT
Brasserie Zedel: Giant room steps
from tourist hell. Cabaret next door.
Floridita: Cuban. Live Music. Cigars.
Go With Friends
DRINKS
The London Cocktail Club: Retro
shabby chic with inventive cocktails.

La Bodega Negra: Dark, sexy and a
bit naughty. Don't stay for dinner.
DINNER
Pitt Cue Co.: The best barbecue in
London. Long wait worth it (and plenty
of pubs nearby.) Get the book.
Ember Yard: Like a trip to Barcelona
without leaving London.The area's
best tapas.
Sleek 40-seat spaceThe Palomar:
serving the food of modern
Jerusalem. Get a seat at the bar.
LATE NIGHT
Bone Daddies: Rocking ramen.
Opium: Secret Chinese-style bar.
Zesty cocktails and so-so dim-sum.
Go With Family
DINNER
Bodean's BBQ: Great barbecue for
families and groups. Enormous
tables, plus kids eat free (with adult.)
Princi: A feast for the eyes. A bit of
Milan in London. Multiple options for
groups and children. Bakery, too.
Pizza Pilgrims: In a sea of bad chain
shops, exemplary in its commitment
to serving quality food at low prices.
Hix Soho: British regional cooking at
its best. Basement bar serves
cocktails with historical connotations.

Yauatcha: Modern Chinese that is
better than Hakkasan. Dependable if
not cheap. Staff good with kids.
DESSERT
Gelupo: Chef's choice for best ice
cream in London. Also pop-ups and
party planning for kids and adults.
Source: Bloomberg
Jason Atherton's Soho restaurant is the hardest to get into and completely worth it.

EDITOR'S CORNER
Bio-Dynamic Wines a Worthy Experiment, Not a Hangover Cure
BY PETER ELLIOT
Earlier this year, an artist friend
returned home from the foraging, culinary
mecca of Belgium's In de Wulf and
proclaimed that she'd had the most
important meal of her life: after a night of
drinking only bio-dynamic and sulfite-free
wines, she awoke without a headache. A
miracle declared, we vowed to drink only
sulfite-free wines forever.
This vow quickly went by the wayside,
however, as repeated experimentation
showed no impact on my own headaches.
Further, I learned it's impossible to have a
totally sulfite-free wine, as sulfites are a
natural by-product of fermentation.
My loyalty to the cause was
permanently expunged in July at Le
Gavroche in London when I was
presented with a golden 2006 Clos des
Mouches from Joseph Drouhin, followed
by a Margaux, Chateau Cantenac-Brown
2004. With such offerings on the table,
would I turn my back on my beautiful
artist friend and our bio-dynamic
mission? Obviously.
But the experiment wasn't squandered
time. Along the way, I did have a delicious
—tour of bio-dynamic wines, and found
—headaches or no headaches I
generally prefer them.
The common denominator of
bio-dynamic wines, regardless of the
region, is that they all taste rather like
you'd expect wines to have tasted 300
years ago. There's a pleasant, earthy
aroma and taste that is unmistakable.
Drinking great wines that are well crafted
is a net positive, bio-dynamic or not.
Perhaps more importantly than the
taste, I like the craft and passion that
comes with the people who make them.
Because they're often crafted on farms
and not sold by the large producers,
they're also generally well-priced.
Imbibing bio-dynamic wines has opened
up a whole new section of my wine cellar,
and given the choice, I'll still look at
bio-dynamic producers first because I've
come to like them. But that
doesn't mean I'll be turning down a bottle
of the other stuff anytime soon. And
neither will my artist friend.
own. Follow him on Twitter/Instagram
@mrpeterelliot.
Some Top Bio-Dynamic Wines
Chateau Maris: Languedoc
Classic BeaujolaisMarcel Lapierre:
California pioneersFrey Vineyards:
Brilliant JuraArbois:
Sicilian gemsVigna di Milo:
*Note for U.S. readers: Look for
wines imported by
Madrose/Rosenthal, Kermit Lynch,
Louis/Dressner or Daniel Johnnes

RESTAURANT REVIEW
How to Get a Table at Chiltern Firehouse Without Being Famous
BY RICHARD VINES
Chiltern Firehouse is filled with so many
celebrities, it’s almost impossible to get a
table.
It’s like when I tried for a midweek
dinner reservation at the Ivy in July 2007
and was offered a booking for January
2008. I took it. If somewhere is that
popular, I want in.
Times change. I called the Ivy recently
and got a table for the same night.
Chiltern Firehouse probably faces a
similarly accessible future. That doesn’t
help right now if you want to go and are
not famous enough to snag a reservation.
There is a way in. The restaurant
recently started serving breakfast. It’s not
being promoted anywhere and there is no
great crush. It’s not particularly expensive
and on a sunny day, the windows are all
open and the sunshine streams in.
The first thing to notice about the
Chiltern Firehouse is that it is unusual and
beautiful. The dining room of the former
fire station isn’t glitzy at all. The glamour
is understated, blending industrial
touches with comfortable banquettes, a
tiled floor and lots of cream-painted wood.
The lighting is subtle and flattering. I
caught sight of myself in a mirror and
even I looked like I belonged there.
Second, the service is good. The
owner, U.S. hotelier Andre Balazs, has
brought in talented staff members from
restaurants across London. The fact
many are also gorgeous helps. The
uniforms are beautiful and the service
style is American: friendly not stiff.
And so to the food.
The menu is accessible, with steaks
and salads and simple fish and vegetable
dishes. At breakfast, you might start with
croissant, blueberry compote at 6 pounds
($10) then move on to smoked salmon,
poached eggs and herbed potato cakes
(12 pounds).
If you’re feeling adventurous, the spiced
crab omelette with turmeric, potatoes and
chervil (17 pounds) is a
specialty. It looks pretty, served in a
skillet, but it’s too sweet. I go for the
Spiced Crab Omelette
Iberico pork sausage and crispy smoked
bacon with toast.
The juices are fresh. The coffee is
weak. The cappuccino is for babies or
people who don’t like coffee. If they
wanted to decaffeinate it, they’d need
sniffer dogs to find the caffeine.
My general feeling is that if there’s time
for breakfast, there’s time for an extra
hour in bed. But if you are one of those
power people who like to set up
early-morning meetings, Chiltern
Firehouse may be the place for you.
Other options include steamed egg
whites chawanmushi with mushrooms
and greens — a Japanese custard
costing 12 pounds; and French toast,
smoked bacon, spiced maple syrup (9
pounds).
The Wolseley is my favorite place in
London for breakfast. Chiltern Firehouse
currently comes second.
If you do make it in for lunch or dinner,
it’s useful to know in advance that the
cooking is not ambitious. The website
gives no information and word-of-mouth
about the place is hard to come by
unless you hang out with celebrities. It’s
comfort food and some diners may be
Comfort Food
disappointed not to be wowed.
That’s understandable. Lisbon-born
Nuno Mendes is one of the U.K.’s most
creative talents. At his previous
restaurant, Viajante, his kitchen was a
laboratory, his menu sizzled, his dishes
were like fireworks. You might consider
Firehouse a damp squib if Caesar salad
and sirloin steak are not your thing.
But I am not disappointed. I like his
cooking and if he is giving you a familiar
dish, he will still spice up your life.
The snacks of corn bread and
especially the crab-stuffed donuts are
delicious. The steak tartare comes with a
twist in the shape of a chipotle sauce; the
Caesar salad is topped with crispy
chicken skin rather than a chunk of breast
meat.
If you can put to one side the celebrity
madness surrounding Chiltern Firehouse,
you have a glamorous restaurant with
good service and decent food and a wine
list that isn’t too greedy. If you show up
toward the end of lunch time, you might
even be able to get a table without
booking.
Failing that, I may see you at breakfast.
Follow him on Twitter @richardvines
Chiltern Firehouse really was a Victorian firehouse. Note the chair-webbing in the ceiling.

DESTINATIONS
San Francisco's Technology-Meets-Finance Culture Reaps Culinary Rewards
BY PETER ELLIOT
San Francisco is gentrifying faster than they can make apps to
keep up. Technology giants like Google, incubated in the
suburbs, are finding themselves drawn back to the dense urban
center where financiers and jeans makers used to roll. Twitter
has built its world headquarters in an old furniture store on
Market Street at the edge of the Tenderloin, one of America’s
roughest neighborhoods. Newly minted tech billionaires rub
swimming pools with Hearsts and Gettys high on Pacific Heights
and buses shuttle gurus from the burbs to areas like the Mission
and Noe Valley and Sausalito.
Between them all lies a culture that continues to celebrate play
as much as it relishes work. And play they do, usually at 3 p.m.
PST when the East Coast finally leaves them alone and they can
head out jogging or surfing, followed by serious eating and
drinking.
San Francisco is a food mecca because of the availability of
ingredients, its multi-ethnic heritage and a surplus of people
willing to try new flavors. Substantially lower costs for both food
and real estate (at least for restaurant spaces) make it all
possible. It’s like a giant Brooklyn where if you’ve got a dream,
you can probably try it and someone will probably eat it.
Top Restaurants:
State Bird Provisions: Believe the hype. Creative, not
pretentious, with food served dim-sum style.
Boulevard: Traditional American-French for the financial
community. Bay views, great food and solid service.
Tosca Cafe: April Bloomfield's sexy, clubby rebirth of an old SF
favorite. Think Carbone via April. Seriously fun.
Commissary: Traci Des Jardins' new spot in the Presidio. Like
a trip to a perfect world circa 1945 but with modern food.
SPQR: This is how modern, fancy Italian gets translated in
smooth, relaxed, rich Pacific Heights. Matthew Accarrino is one
of the most lauded chefs of 2014. Get the squid ink pasta.
Bar Tartine: The famous bakery makes one of the best
restaurants in the world. I'd travel back just for the chicken livers
with turnips and chili oil and the sparkling Zweigelt rose.
Top Bars and Clubs:
Burritt Room + Tavern: Aureole's Charlie Palmer's new,
funky, club/hotel/restaurant with a well-known secret (ask for the
Wingtip) is shockingly avant-garde and very good.
The Battery: The home of the new tech-intelligentsia is owned
by Bebo's Michael Birch. Private but if you can code they break
the rules. Members club, bar and hotel all worth the price.
Zeitgeist: This Mecca to all things metal is a great starting
point for a tour of the Mission District. Order a pitcher of local
brews like Bear Republic, Anchor or Speakeasy.
Hard Water: Watch worker bees pour in for the serious
cocktails and bay views. The small plates are good, too.
Local Edition: An old speakeasy turned bar/lounge. Classy,
fun and great location near everything.
Martuni's: In the city that fostered same-sex marriage, this is a
lively spot to check out the gay scene and do a sing-along.
— Conquer BART, the city's subway system. Getting up and down Market Street, San Francisco's main corridor,Getting Around
is a breeze. It means the food ghettos of Berkeley and the Mission are closer than they look. SF is also the home of Uber, which
changes the way you get around a large, very hilly city. Beware of surcharges. I also tried ride-sharing company Lyft.
— Homelessness, drugs and squalor are very visible. Not violent, just visible. Areas like the Tenderloin comeSocial Inequality
up faster than you think.
— As an Uber driver told me, "We know how to work and we know how to play." It's true. Surfing, boating andWork and Fun
hiking are all fantastic and readily available. Don't sit in the office. Join the fun. Then hit the bars and stroll Valencia Street.
— I got a seat at Mission Chinese and at State Bird just by showing up and being nice. Try it. The city responds inFood as Sport
kind. Also, don't miss the Embarcadero and Ferry Building — a great palace for food, shopping and people watching.
INSIDER TIPS
Next month: Hong Kong. Tips? MSG me at peterelliot@bloomberg.net
The new home of Twitter on San Francisco's Market Street.

RANK METRO AREA
HIPSTER
SCORE
TOTAL
POPULATION
(000)
POPULATION
25-34 (000)
GREEN
COMMUTERS
(%)
EMPLOYED
RESIDENTS
25-34 (%)
HIPSTER
EMPLOYMENT
QUOTIENT
MIN.
HIPSTER
WAGE
MEDIAN
MAX.
HIPSTER
WAGE
MEDIAN
NEXT UP AND
COMING
NEIGHBORHOODS
1
New York-Northern New
Jersey-Long Island, NY-NJ-PA
86.20% 19,160.02 2,771.18 41.86 74.98 1.75 $28,730 $101,230
Astoria
(Queens),
Bushwick
(Brooklyn),
Yorkville
(Manhattan)
2
Los Angeles-Long Beach-Santa
Ana, CA
71.81% 13,052.92 1,937.24 14.62 73.47 2.89 $30,470 $119,810
Los Feliz, Silver
Lake
3
San Francisco-Oakland-Fremont,
CA
56.71% 4,455.56 678.35 27.86 76.47 1.44 $27,650 $92,330
Inner Richmond,
Tenderloin
4
Washington-Arlington-Alexandria,
DC-VA-MD-WV
56.55% 5,804.33 909.43 23.13 81.11 1.36 $20,550 $70,430
Adams Morgan,
Columbia
Heights
5
Chicago-Joliet-Naperville,
IL-IN-WI
53.64% 9,522.45 1,372.27 19.25 76.57 0.96 $25,400 $93,090
Lake View,
Logan Square
6
Boston-Cambridge-Quincy,
MA-NH
50.81% 4,640.80 657.66 22.97 79.99 1.01 $22,500 $93,250 Dorchester
7 Seattle-Tacoma-Bellevue, WA 48.25% 3,552.16 553.11 18.74 76.14 1.24 $25,200 $81,280 Capitol Hill
8
Philadelphia-Camden-Wilmington,
PA-NJ-DE-MD
46.31% 6,018.80 805.07 18.04 73.86 0.87 $24,660 $78,440
Northern
Liberties
9
Minneapolis-St.
Paul-Bloomington, MN-WI
46.02% 3,353.72 496.48 12.60 83.49 1.22 $24,520 $82,730 Seward, Whittier
10
Portland-Vancouver-Hillsboro,
OR-WA
45.10% 2,289.65 342.81 18.45 75.61 1.13 $23,020 $75,990 Buckman
Sources: Bureau of Labor Statistics, Census, 2012 1-year American Community Survey, Realtor.com, Yelp, Zillow *Data as of Aug. 19, 2014.
Methodology: More than 260 metropolitan statistical areas were ranked on the number of 25- to 34-year-old residents; the % employed within that age group; the % of commuters
who use "green" transportation to work or work at home; and employment in fields including art, design, media, writing and music. The ranks were converted into %s and averaged
to determine the order. Then Yelp and other sources were used to identify neighborhoods within the top 50 areas that had numerous "hipster" amenities while being relatively
affordable. Among the amenities considered: vintage clothing stores, bars, independent music venues, record stores, tattoo parlors, etc.
HIPSTER WATCH DATA BY LAURIE MEISLER, BLOOMBERG RANKINGS
New York Tops Hipster Rankings; Portlandia Clocks in at No. 10
Bloomberg ranked the neighborhoods
where young, creative and
environmentally conscious people — in
common terms, hipsters — tend to
congregate. No Brooklyn resident should
be surprised to learn the New York
metropolitan area tops the list of the most
hipster-filled communities in the
continental U.S. Los Angeles and San
Francisco are also major assembling
points for skinny jeans, beards and ironic
tattoos, Bloomberg data (and common
knowledge) show.
Those falling into the anti-hipster camp
blame the group for gentrifying
long-standing communities and disrupting
an existing way of life. On the other side,
as hipsters ride their fixed-gear bikes into
new areas, they tend to bring with them
all sorts of modern culinary creations,
from craft breweries to artisanal cheese
markets. Below, the ten "hipster-est"
cities in the States.
— Anne Riley
San Francisco draws a notoriously hipster crowd.

Q&A
How Two Guys in a Studio Apartment Became a Major International Food Group
As poor roommates, worked forMario Carbone
Mario Batali and worked for DanielRich Torrisi
Boulud. They dreamed of restaurants that took
their Italian-American culinary vision to another
level. They started with a tiny deli by day,
restaurant by night, called Torrisi. Next was Parm.
Last year saw Carbone, a 50s style, Godfather
club, and they’ve been expanding ever since.
They've won the commission to open a spot under
the Highline and a Carbone in Hong Kong. Will
Asia take to waiters in burgundy tuxedos with frilly
shirts? Peter Elliot talked with Rich and partner
at their fourth restaurant, ZZ’sJeff Zalaznick
Clam Bar. Mario joined by phone.
Q: Your first spot was tiny at 18 seats.
How do you morph from renegade
chefs to major restaurant operators?
Rich: It's really the nature of our
relationship, the reason we got together. I
always wanted to do Torrisi. Mario always
wanted to do Carbone. It was his destiny.
Then we met Jeff and it was something
we were all passionate about: food, the
business of it and dreaming big.
Q: I think of you as the quintessential
obnoxious chef dude. Does growth
mean you have to rein in that impulse?
Rich: I'm still the obnoxious chef dude.
Jeff: When you look at what we decided
to do together, what we have done, the
truth is, yes, he is the ultimate crazy,
obnoxious chef. It’s also true that both of
them wanted to build a restaurant
company. They're as interested in talking
about deals as I am in the food. That’s a
very unique dynamic.
Q: Carbone HK, Dirty French, Under
the Highline, more Parms. As you
grow, how do you maintain the
quality?
Mario: We work like business partners.
It's not the classic bi-polar
chef/restaurateur relationship. We discuss
everything. Constantly.
How do you go from chef-drivenJeff:
company to be an expanding business?
We’re both, at the same exact time.
Rich: We don't hold on to ideas. We
move fast. There's no feelings. Nothing is
personal. And we do it together. That's
the thing really. We see a problem, we fix
it in minutes, not days.
Q: You all went on a dim-sum tour of
Asia and wound up with a restaurant in
Hong Kong. Seems erratic. Was it?
Jeff: If you'd asked us a year ago, we'd
have said, "You're crazy." What we are is
open to new ideas if they make sense for
the business. And we found partners that
made sense just at the right time.
Q: Who are your Hong Kong partners?
It's Black Sheep, a spin-off of DiningJeff:
Concepts. So the two guys we're working
with have opened every major shop out
there from a food side and the business
side. They opened a lighter version of
Mission Chinese and Motorino. In a lot of
ways they reminded us of us, but there.
Q: Will Hong Kong take to the Carbone
concept? Why not Torrisi or ZZ's?
Mario: They'll take to it because it is a
vibrant and exciting city that is very
similar to New York in many ways.
Jeff: And they love Italian. New York
Italian doesn't exist and we're the
ambassadors for that. It was also the
easiest to duplicate. They also really like
business dinners and large groups.
Rich: There’s never going to be another
Torrisi. It’s the one that doesn’t get
replicated. Ever. Not while I'm alive.
Jeff: Everything about Torrisi is about
Rich and his ideas. ZZ’s could be
replicated at some point down the road.
:Q But why Hong Kong?
The opportunity for me is two fold;Jeff:
present Carbone to a new audience in a
great city but more importantly I think for
our company, it’s a great springboard to
the rest of Asia. It opens us up to a part of
the world that's growing. Like us.
Q: Now that you've got the gold ring?
Jeff: Have we? I'm not sure we're there
yet. We're moving from a small mom and
pop shop to a medium-sized company
with 150 employees. The trick is keeping
talent and rewarding them as we grow.
Mario and I are very, very differentRich:
chefs and we have very, very different
sensibilities. And we've been reaching for
the gold ring since we started. Being poor
was the price you paid. But we know a lot
of different people and draw on very
strong relationships. People gravitate to
us now and we keep them.
Q: Yes, but how?
Because we’re expanding. That’sJeff:
how it works. If you don’t expand you
can’t keep anyone. So it’s really about our
ability to create interesting projects.
Most talented cooks, chefs and front of
house people want to move to better,
bigger positions. Growth is what’s
allowing us to maintain that quality. And
to Rich’s point, he can be here in NYC,
Mario in HK and I can go back and forth.
It's a unique dynamic.
Q: What's the best thing you've
learned about Hong Kong so far?
That it's now my favorite cityMario:
in the world other than New York. It helps
that I get to eat the best shrimp dumplings
for breakfast!

Source: Dylan + Jeni
Mario Carbone, Jeff Zalaznick, Rich Torrisi

Sponsored by:
October 2014

Bloomberg Global Top Five*
London
1. — Still scorchingChiltern Firehouse
2. Beast — Live seafood and steak
3. Gymkhana — Best Indian
4. City Social — A room with a view
5. Berners Tavern — Modern British
New York
1. — Bobby Flay takes SpainGato
2. — Billy Joel ItalianCarbone
3. — Torrisi goes French Dirty French
4. — Super, popular ItalianL'Artusi
5. — Bistro super-clubCherche Midi
Hong Kong
1. — N.Y. Italian goes EastCarbone
2. — Everyone loves itJamie's Italian
3. — Fab building Aberdeen St. Social
4. — Best burger in townButchers Club
5. — Upscale-ish fast foodCaliBurger
Singapore
1. — Thai plus lemongrass mojitosSoi 60
2. — Best ItalianBuko Nero
3. — AustralianSalt Grill & Sky Bar
4. — N.Y. styleLuke's Oyster Bar
5. — FrenchRhubarb Le Restaurant
Am I already too late to book a
holiday party? Should I quit my day
job and become a chef? Peter Elliot
discusses. Click the photo to launch
or go to: http://bit.ly/OctReservePod
reviews and ratings. Updated Oct. 2, 2014.
Autumn Leaves Means Party Planning Happens Now
BY PETER ELLIOT
October or not, sleigh bells are just around the corner. If you’re planning to throw a
party this holiday season, the smart money gets its act together now.
Whether you're organizing an outsized office party or a dinner for 12, the best room
and table options for the best times fill up fast.
It’s not that there’s a shortage of party venues. It’s more that there’s a shortage of
venues that are flexible. The ideal is a room that can grow or shrink to accommodate as
your party plans materialize.
Work the phones now and know what you want, for how many and when. When you
have the booking (and they have the down payment), you can make alterations.
Once you've selected the spot, some tips: 1. Be flexible. If they suggest an early
starting time, listen. It's in your interest and theirs to "turn-over" the room twice in a night.
2. Minimize food and drink options. Have one star item to streamline service. 3. Have an
after-party plan. Whether late-night drinks are on the company card or not, it's helpful to
coordinate a group-wide rendezvous point for when the open bar closes.
Here are some holiday spots in London and New York I’d be scoring now:
London
1. Covent Garden screamsBalthazar:
Christmas. Keith McNally's N.Y. bistro
transplant has the best room in the area,
with its own entrance and bar.
2. It'll be hard to beat this hipAce Hotel:
set of spaces in Shoreditch this holiday
season. Go for the 100 Room. Try
for another option.Rochelle Canteen
3. Chinese food lends itself toHutong:
holiday events. At The Shard, this Hong
Kong twin has multiple party rooms and
options. If you're lucky, you'll get a view.
New York
1. Andrew Carmellini's spot-onLafayette:
French bistro is close enough to both
major train stations. Hooks you into The
Dutch, Locanda Verde and Bar Primi.
2. Danny Meyer's newest at theMarta:
Martha Washington Hotel. Any of his
restaurants will have the rooms you want.
3. A solid corporate spaceBrasserie:
that works for multiple party sizes. For
swankier affairs, go upstairs to The Four
Across the streetSeasons. Casa Lever
has a Marc Newson-designed space.
Looking out at the Pool Room at The Four Seasons. When the trees turn red, it will be booked.

October 2014 Bloomberg Brief Reserve 10
Q&A
Pok Pok Grows Beyond Portland and Brooklyn to a New Dream Hub in Los Angeles
Andy Ricker opened his Thai restaurant Pok Pok
in Portland, Oregon in 2005 when he was in his
early 40s, a career-changing refugee from the
house painting business. Its melamine plates and
low prices have since come to define Thai food in
America. As he approaches 50, his mini-empire —
already established in New York along a restored
section of the Brooklyn waterfront — is expanding
to Los Angeles with two new restaurants. Peter
Elliot sat down with Ricker to discuss a mid-life
food career, where he goes next and the best way
to eat Thai food.
Q: You're opening two restaurants in
Los Angeles. Why there?
A: The number one reason is that I can
get all the product that I need there. I’ve
always opened in the Northwest and the
East Coast, which are about as far away
from the products I want as you can
possibly imagine. And two, I’m definitely
expansion minded. it’s a masochistic kind
of mindf**k but I actually kind of really
enjoy the process.
Q: You must be in it for more than the
torture, the hot oil, the fear of failure.
It sounds crazy but I’ve got aA:
background in construction so I enjoy
looking at a space and solving the puzzle.
It’s just problem solving. I'd go crazy
otherwise I'm sure. It's my therapy.
Q: And? I'm sensing something else.
A: Age. Language. I'm ashamed I can't
speak Thai as well as I'd like. When you
start as late as I did, now I only want
more. My plan when I opened was, 'I’ll do
this and we’ll close down in the winter.'
My goal is/was to eventually spend six
months of the year in Thailand and learn
to speak fluently, build a school, a home.
But we started expanding and started
getting super busy. I had no idea that
what was going to happen was going to
happen. I went way into debt. I thought I
was opening a little restaurant that would
just do its little thing and I'd be able to
make a living, have a place to live and I
could travel and carry on with what I’d
already been doing the past 10 years.
Q: Is expanding now more important
than pursuing your dream?
No. For one thing Pok Pok isn’t theA:
right model for someone to swoop in and
pay $40 million. If we were a burger chain
then I'd understand it but the food we do
is really hyper specific and there’s not a
whole lot of people in America that have
the same skill set. I’m not tooting my own
horn. It’s just a fact. So to sell out to
somebody and not retain control wouldn’t
be valuable to somebody. And I'm not
[Mario] Batali or Altamarea; I don't have a
$90 check average. We're far lower.
Q: And you do or don't want that?
Doesn't expansion go hand and hand
with building higher revenue?
A: Not to me. To me it's the food. Thai is
not high price point food. It never will be.
very day IAnd I get frustrated. Look, e
wonder if I should just shut down
everything except for Pok Pok in Portland
and Whiskey Soda Lounge and just f**k
off to Thailand for six months and write.
:Q And what would you do there?
Where is this dream going?
A: My ultimate philosophical and
emotional goal is to try to do my best to
further the stature of Thai food outside of
Thailand in whatever small way I can.
That’s important to me. I just think it’s a
misunderstood cuisine outside of
Thailand and L.A. is the place to do that.
It's a big audience. The more audience
you have, the more chance you have to
spread the vision.
Q: But always on your own?
On my own terms. Look, I come fromA:
nothing. If everything goes wrong
tomorrow and I go back to being a
contractor, I can do that. I'm not worried. I
can make a living. So I can go into this
stuff not feeling like I need to bring on an
investor. I could stop now and be OK.
Q: There are plenty of good restaurant
relationships.
A: And mostly bad ones. Hey, I've just
worked out how to have a girlfriend who I
think gets me. That's enough for 50!
Q: But what does Andy really want for
Andy? I feel like we're near it.
A: I'd love to teach. I’d like to find a way
to do it that matches my dream. Having a
place in Thailand, land in Chiang Mai and
enough space to operate. A test kitchen.
Bring people who are dedicated enough
make the trip. That's real and doable in
five years while I still am young enough. I
have just enough chutzpah to pull it off.
Q: And L.A. can start to do this — the
Ricker Institute for Thai Cooking?
A: No. There's not enough room there.
But yes, it's getting me a lot closer to my
dream.
Q: What's the best way to eat Thai?
A: With a spoon! The best way to eat
Thai food is with a spoon, not with
chopsticks. It drives me nuts. If I could
just teach that.

Pok Pok's Andy Ricker in Brookyln, N.Y.

October 2014 Bloomberg Brief Reserve 2
IF/THEN

If You Like Cherche Midi, Then You'll Love...
Englishman Keith McNally opened Balthazar in New York’s Soho in 1997 as an ode to
the all-day/all-night brasseries of Paris with new nicotine stained walls and a bakery. It's
relaxed yet trendy, French yet accessible. It has become so popular that McNally has
opened a smaller, more French sister, Cherche Midi, and it has been an instant hit. If
you like either of them, you’ll likely find these restaurants compelling, too.

IF: CHERCHE MIDI
282 Bowery, New York, NY 10012
Setting: Fin de siecle Paris done new.
Food: Upscale French brasserie.
Bar Scene: Small. Huge selection.
Noise Level: Loud but not unbearable.
Date Factor: Almost perfect.
Groups: Besides the booths, the only
way is to buy the restaurant for a night.
Secrets: Go to any of the group's
restaurants often enough and the secret
reservation number will be yours. Think of
it like air miles. And it works.
London
The Wolseley: It came after Balthazar,
but does very much the same thing.
Andrew Edmunds: 18th Century
townhouse lit by candles and a menu that
changes daily. One of my favorites.
Galvin La Chapelle: In a former church
in Spitalfields. Laid back and luxurious.
New York
A more feminine approach.Claudette:
Soft blues, vegetables as light as air, and
a bottle of rosé on ice.
L'Absinthe: An uptown institution that
deserves its great reputation. Or , ifOrsay
you need to be closer to Fifth Avenue.
Buvette: Joie de vivre from Jody
Williams. Delicious, playful. Private room.
San Francisco
Bar Tartine: This is a brasserie done
the west coast way. Breathtaking food
and pastries from the original .Tartine
At the SeaMondrian London:
Containers building on the South
Bank with N.Y. chef Seamus Mullen.
Quaglino's: Full-scale renovation of
Mayfair classic run by D&D London.

Tredwell's: Marcus Wareing opens in
theater-land with British fare done in
small or large sizes. Very clever.
Park Avenue (Autumn): In the space
that was briefly General Assembly.
Will Autumn turn to Spring?
Charlie Palmer Steak: An outpost of
his Washington D.C. hit in Midtown.
Danny Meyer does pizza in aMarta:
modernist Annabelle Selldorf space.
Rainbow Room: Art-deco gem atop
Rockefeller Center is regilded. Private
parties only. Open to public Sunday
brunch, Monday dinner, holidays.
Bread Street Kitchen: Gordon
Ramsay comes to town, above Hard
Rock Cafe and below Carbone.
OPENINGS
London
New York
Hong Kong

Ted Merz
Bloomberg Brief
Executive Editor
tmerz@bloomberg.net
+1-212-617-2300
Peter Elliot
Bloomberg Brief
Reserve Editor
+1-212-617-2332
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Bloomberg Brief
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Bloomberg Brief
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Bloomberg Brief
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Source: Nick Solares for Balthazar
The power booth at Cherche Midi.

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